Re: [DMCForum] Relays & current draw

[Chris Almy <chris.almy@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

I see now. Are the launcher relays currently wired into a remote control 
system using switched grounds? If so, I would tap into the relays on that 
side and run the wiring to your center console switches. From there go to 
the brake switch. So what happens is when the brake is on, one side of the 
switches is grounded. When they are activated, the relays are grounded 
activating the actuators. If the brake is off, the switches aren't grounded 
and nothing should happen.

I hope I explained that well enough. Should work for you and not take any 
extra current or overload the brake switch.

Chris

At 03:55 PM 2/26/2006 -0800, you wrote:
>I want the ability to hit the door launchers & trunk release from
>inside the vehicle. The trunk release, because I hate bending down to
>pull the cable; the launchers because I'm constantly explaining to
>passengers how to open the door while they fumble with the locks and
>would rather just open their door for them. So I'm going to replace
>the dummy switches next to the window switches with another set of
>power window switches. Pushing up on the passenger or driver side will
>open the door on that side; pushing down on the driver's side will pop
>the trunk, and I haven't decided what to do with the down on the
>passenger's side.
>
>Given the location of where I want the switches, an interlock with the
>e-brake is essential. A relay is easiest but the power draw is
>unacceptable... I suppose I could tie the actuators right into the
>brake switch, but the current draw concerns me. Even though it's only
>momentary, the actuators pull a few amps, and I often hit the
>passenger & driver's doors simultaneously. I don't think even a brief
>10 amp pull through the e-brake switch is the best idea...
>
>-Ryan


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