Re: [DMCForum] Relays & current draw

["Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright@xxxxxxxxx>]

Chris,

> You didn't say which type of battery you have. Assuming it's an Optima red
> top (small model with a 44 Ah capacity) and you don't want to drain it more
> then 50%, you then have only 22Ah to drain. So 22/.16 equals 137.5 hours or
> approximately 5.7 days. This of course assumes that there is no other load
> on the battery.

Excellent. That's the calculation I was looking for, thank you. :)

> If it wasn't for the alarm, I would say just ground the receiver and lock
> module directly to the brake switch. The rest of the accessories won't work
> without them.

The alarm & stereo equipment pull directly from the battery; I don't
want to change that. The alarm needs to be powered constantly and the
stereo equipment shuts down with the ignition (other than a tiny
amount of power to hold the settings). The electric trunk release &
door launchers are all I want to tie to the brake switch.

> Why would you want to do this? I've never heard of anybody having the door
> launchers and trunk popper accidentally activate while driving.

I want the ability to hit the door launchers & trunk release from
inside the vehicle. The trunk release, because I hate bending down to
pull the cable; the launchers because I'm constantly explaining to
passengers how to open the door while they fumble with the locks and
would rather just open their door for them. So I'm going to replace
the dummy switches next to the window switches with another set of
power window switches. Pushing up on the passenger or driver side will
open the door on that side; pushing down on the driver's side will pop
the trunk, and I haven't decided what to do with the down on the
passenger's side.

Given the location of where I want the switches, an interlock with the
e-brake is essential. A relay is easiest but the power draw is
unacceptable... I suppose I could tie the actuators right into the
brake switch, but the current draw concerns me. Even though it's only
momentary, the actuators pull a few amps, and I often hit the
passenger & driver's doors simultaneously. I don't think even a brief
10 amp pull through the e-brake switch is the best idea...

-Ryan


 
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