[DML] Re: Fuel Pump Not Getting Voltage After RPM Relay Replaced

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

The things I pointed out to check are among the more common problem
areas. Obviously you have to get power to the fuse block and then on
to the relays. It does come from the battery to the starter and then
the alternator before it gets to the fuseblock. Unless someone had
touched the starter or alternator the connections on them are not
usually a problem. When they are a problem you should have noticed
that you had no power to anything, horn, lights, etc. That would have
been a tip-off that the problem was not "just" in the fuel pump
circuit but a more general problem. With the symptoms you described it
seemed to be "just" a fuel pump problem. I would inspect ALL of the
wiring connections now on the starter, alternator, frame grounds, and
bulkhead connectors. Make sure the wires are properly routed and are
not close to the exhaust manifold. The RPM relay you replaced was
probably OK. Keep it for a spare. You may want to try it to make sure.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 




> I pulled the washer bottle box and checked the harness, no corrosion 
> found. Also checked the fuse block, no problems there. The inertia 
> switch has been replaced and checks out as well. Chuck advised that  
> the brown wires feed power to the the main and aux relays which feed 
> the RPM relay. I started checking all my voltage points that had a 
> brown wire, and found a loose copper starter bolt. I cleaned the 
> bolt, tightened it down into the starter case and cleaned the large 
> cable terminals and the brown wire terminals. Added some vasoline to 
> them and tightened them down. I did the same thing at the alternator 
> with the brown wires. 
> 
> It started right up. Not sure it's fixed, will have to start and let 
> it run for a while then try to restart the car.
> 
> Thanks for your help. 
> 
> Mike, I was wrong on the wire color; it was white with a purple 
> stripe.
> 
> Jim
>




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