[DML] Re: Fuel Pump Not Getting Voltage After RPM Relay Replaced
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[DML] Re: Fuel Pump Not Getting Voltage After RPM Relay Replaced

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@...> 
> You need to pull the washer bottle bucket down by the left, front 
> wheel and check the plug in the wiring harness. The fuel pump power 
> goes through it and if it has a bad connection you won't have power 
> or ground for the pump. You also have to check the fuse and the 
> connectors in the fuse block for overheating damage. Finally you 
> need to check the inertia switch. The ground for the fuel pump goes 
> through it. It could be bad, the connector could be burnt, or you 
> may not have the newer switch. If the inertia switch does NOT have 
> white paint splotch you need to replace it as per the recall. It is 
> also supposed to be relocated to the side of the footwell, not on 
> the Lamba counter. When you have bad connections in a circuit it 
> drops the voltage in the circuit causing the load to draw more 
> The additional amperage casues more heat to be created increasing 
> the resistance which increases the current. Bottom line, a bad 
> connection in a circuit will cause ALL of the connections in that 
> circuit to overheat.
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "davvet2" <davvet2@> wrote:
> >
> > 
> > My Delorean wasn't getting power to the fuel pump, and I replaced 
> the 
> > RPM relay. Still didn't work, so I ran a new wire to the pump, 
> cut 
> > the blue/white wire at the relay and soldered the pump wire. I 
> checked, 
> > and the pump ran. It started, I drove it out of the garage and 
> > putting some things back into place -- and after 3 hours I tried 
> to 
> > start it and it ran for a second, then quit. I checked the fuel 
> pump 
> > for power, there was none. I checked the pump wire at the relay, 
> no 
> > power. I tried to use a jumper on the relay to make it start  
> still 
> > wouldn't start, and I heard some clicking going on in the main & 
> aux 
> > relay area. Finally gave up and pushed it back in the garage and 
> have 
> > been searching the website for answers. Is it possible that I 
> a 
> > bad ignition coil or would it be something else?
> > 
> > If it's the coil, could someone give me a part number where I can 
> get 
> > it quickly (locally)?
> > 
> > Thanks,
> > 
> > Jim
> >

I pulled the washer bottle box and checked the harness, no corrosion 
found. Also checked the fuse block, no problems there. The inertia 
switch has been replaced and checks out as well. Chuck advised that  
the brown wires feed power to the the main and aux relays which feed 
the RPM relay. I started checking all my voltage points that had a 
brown wire, and found a loose copper starter bolt. I cleaned the 
bolt, tightened it down into the starter case and cleaned the large 
cable terminals and the brown wire terminals. Added some vasoline to 
them and tightened them down. I did the same thing at the alternator 
with the brown wires. 

It started right up. Not sure it's fixed, will have to start and let 
it run for a while then try to restart the car.

Thanks for your help. 

Mike, I was wrong on the wire color; it was white with a purple 


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