Re: [DML] Re: Broken torsion bar
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Re: [DML] Re: Broken torsion bar

After reading David's last post regarding a possible solution to torsion bar failure, I inspected both on my car. The passenger side bar easily clears the rear hinge and shows no sign of it touching any part of the hinges. I can get two calling cards between it and the roof hinge.  Just as David stated, the driver's side is another story. The torsion bar has a small bright spot on it on the front side of the rear hinge. The bright spot is about one eighth of a inch wide and has to be caused by the bar touching something, probably the top of the roof  hinge. The bright spot is perfectly smooth and has no scratch or indented feel. I took a piece of EPDM roofing material and cut it about one half of an inch wide and about six inches long. I placed it in front of the hinge, behind the torsion bar and streached it until it went behind the bar at the bright spot. Contact held it in place. Once in place I cut off the ends so that the EPDM is now about three or four inches long
 with the ends free.  It is hardly noticeable. When the door shuts the EPDM covers the torsion bar. EPDM is a material used for commercial membrane roofs. It comes in 45, 60, anf 90 mil thickness. I had some 45 and 90 mil and used the 45 mil, the 90 mil was far too thick to get in place. Can one of the DeLorean service locations adjust my torsion bar/hinge to eliminate this contact or do I consider the EPDM a permanent "fix"? Thank you David for all the helpful advice you give to the group.  Rod, 10921

David Teitelbaum <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:          For those of you that worry about these things I have a possible
solution. All of the torsion bars I have seen that failed usually
break where they pass by the rear hinge. My guess is that the bar rubs
on the hinge creating scratches (read stress risers) that lead to the
eventual breakage. Cut up some thick rubber (like a piece of inner
tube) into a small piece about 1" by 2". Open the door, pull the
torsion bar with your fingers away from the rear hinge and slip the
rubber in between. YOu can use a dab of glue if the bar is far away
and won't hold the rubber in place. Maybe it won't help but it can't hurt!
Another point, the driver's side bar has one end hex and the passenger
side is square. I have seen bars where the splines are messed up but I
have been able to use them with some careful filing. Buying a used
torsion bar can be a leap of faith. You won't know it is good by
visual examination. Only if it can take a load and not break is the
ultimate test. Hard to part with a lot of money and find out it was
dropped or scratched or just damaged in shipping. I don't care how
good a welder is, the process of welding (high temperature) will
affect the cyro treat in the ajoining area to the weld making it
weaker. The weld may not break but how about the area next to the
weld? I do not know of anyone that can say they have a welded up bar
and it is still good. If there are please come forward and let us know
how it was done or at least who did it.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_dmc@...> wrote:
> Actually there is about 45 degrees of twist in the bar with the door 
> wide open. Still a pretty good pent up hunk of energy. 
> Generally though a bar will fail with the door shut since it's more 
> twisted at that point. I have seen a bar fail with the door 1/2 open, 
> but it was a welded-up bar. 
> Dave S
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cbl1739" <cbl302@> wrote:
> >
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Ryan Wright" <ryanpwright@> wrote:
> > >
> > > > If so, why all this talk about welding them? Just buy one. I'm 
> not
> > > sure I'd want to be around an open DeLorean door with a welded 
> torsion
> > > bar.
> > > 
> > > -Ryan
> > >
> > Actually Ryan,when the door is open,the torsion bar is NOT under 
> > load,so the chances of getting zinged by a piece of the torsion bar 
> is 
> > rather slim,that is why you always hear of torsion bars snapping 
> with


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