Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
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Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

Glad I could help.

Next the CO adjustment can be a bit tricky but here's how I was taught to do 
it a few years ago.  With the car running adjust the CO down till the car 
almost dies.  If it dies it's okay just turn the screw back up a pinch and 
restart.  Then slowly move up unitl you hear the Frequncey Valve chirp in a 
very quick and steady pulse.  Cover the hole and wait a few minutes whiloe 
the car stabilizes.  Continue to do so and the car's idle will hold at the 
apropriate range and the car will run very smooth.

I'd go ahead and double check all your vacuum lines just in case.  I had a 
car I worked on where the vacuum lines going into the Vacuum Solenoid were 
reversed once they were switched it did wonders for the car.

Hope this info continues to help you.

You can safely adjust the CO to a richer mixture but remember if the system 
is working properly the frequency valve will start to cut out the moment you 
pass the "sweet spot" go down until it chirps constantly again and then just 
a hare under that setting the car should run like a dream after that.

Jeff in NC

I had backfiring issues when I first got the car running again and it was 
the CO.  If it's too low it will backfire and appear sluggish.  This is most 
likely your problem.  If you're having trouble with your O2 Sensor you can 
unplug to "default enrich" your mixture via the Frequency Valve.  This quick 
fix has helped a few cars around here get back on the road.

>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 01:20:23 -0000
>Thank you Jeff Friday. Good thing you told me to check the timing,
>must have been around 40 degrees (!). So I adjust it back to 13, it
>idles smooth, and so far has been starting up quickly (tomorrow
>morning is the ultimate test). Also readjusted CO. But it now back
>fires more anytime you let off the gas (it backfired before but not
>nearly as much), AND I'm lacking serious power- I'd step on the gas
>before and the car would boogie, now it's sluggish. I changed the
>advance diaphram last year so I know that it's good (will double check
>tomorrow), vac lines are silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
>-----Dani B. #5003
>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304@xxxx>
> > I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced.  It
>popped and
> > ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way over
>to one
> > side of the alignment area.  The distributor was off by one tooth
>where it
> > meets the camshaft.  I pulled the distributor and aligned the motor
>by hand
> > (valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and be
>sure the
> > motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the distributor the
> > position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I checked the
> > timing after the car was running.  I had to move the distributor a few
> > millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a perfect 13
> > degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out.
> >
> > Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing plate.
>  You
> > can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store.  Also when
> > aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on the
>right of
> > the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the
>number 6
> > cylinder.
> >
> > Jeff in NC
> >
> > P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor is
> > properly.  CO balance is very inportant.  You can smell the exhaust
>and tell
> > right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near it.  Also
> > gauge the heat with your hand.  I don't personally know your mechanical
> > ability but that's a trick I use.  An easier way to get proper CO if
> > don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen for the
> > Frequency Valve.  It will cease to make a continuous buzzing noise
>if too
> > rich.  play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to both
>the engine
> > and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be just
> > the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate counterclockwise from
> > richer to lean.  The instant the valve comes on and remains constant
> > the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole.  The car will
> > perfectly from that point out.
> >
> > Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case
>replace or
> > unplug.  Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture and the
> > Frequency Valve buzzes to life.  We used that solution on a couple
>cars here
> > in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a dream.
> >
> > >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
> > >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > >Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
> > >Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000
> > >
> > >I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some
> > >problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise
> > >from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle
> > >condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention
> > >vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will
> > >give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping.
> > >When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the
> > >engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5
> > >minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't
> > >start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a
> > >great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and
> > >adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it
> > >CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock
> > >and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is
> > >there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start
> > >right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)
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