Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
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Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)



Today I took the car to my shop, barely made it; felt like driving 
with an elephant on the car. Symptoms: engine started and idled fine, 
but anything over 2500~3000RPM under load it would misfire and lack 
serious power-like you are towing a boat behind you. I ran a few 
simple tests: Hooked up timing light, made sure it was on 13 degrees. 
I continued to shine the light down on the pulley while pulling on 
the throttle, the timing advanced showing that at least the vacuum 
advance was working normally. Next I disconnected the vacuum line to 
the distributor to check the centrifugal advance. Instead of 
advancing, the timing was slowly retarding depending on the RPMs; 
4000 and it would be down to about 7 degrees. This was the obvious 
problem, so I took out the distributor and opened it up. Found that 
the spring was going to the wrong weight and wasn't even installed on 
the pin on the weight. I installed the spring on the correct pin and 
weight, and made sure it wouldn't fall off. Installed the 
distributor, put the engine all back together and went for a test 
run. The power was back again with no popping and slight backfiring, 
and the idle was smooth. Thanks Jeff for your CO adjusting methods, 
I'm going to fine tune it tomorrow using them. Now all readjusted and 
fixed up, the car made it fine back to my apartment; idle condition 
or power hasn't deteriorated so I'm imagining everything is all fixed 
now. Again, the ultimate test is starting it after a night of 
sitting. What kind of engine damage could result after 3 years 
running it at around 40 degrees with no centrifugal advance? I'd like 
to thank everyone for their help on this issue -----Dani B. #5003



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304@xxxx> 
wrote:
> Glad I could help.
> 
> Next the CO adjustment can be a bit tricky but here's how I was 
taught to do 
> it a few years ago.  With the car running adjust the CO down till 
the car 
> almost dies.  If it dies it's okay just turn the screw back up a 
pinch and 
> restart.  Then slowly move up unitl you hear the Frequncey Valve 
chirp in a 
> very quick and steady pulse.  Cover the hole and wait a few minutes 
whiloe 
> the car stabilizes.  Continue to do so and the car's idle will hold 
at the 
> apropriate range and the car will run very smooth.
> 
> I'd go ahead and double check all your vacuum lines just in case.  
I had a 
> car I worked on where the vacuum lines going into the Vacuum 
Solenoid were 
> reversed once they were switched it did wonders for the car.
> 
> Hope this info continues to help you.
> 
> You can safely adjust the CO to a richer mixture but remember if 
the system 
> is working properly the frequency valve will start to cut out the 
moment you 
> pass the "sweet spot" go down until it chirps constantly again and 
then just 
> a hare under that setting the car should run like a dream after 
that.
> 
> Jeff in NC
> 
> I had backfiring issues when I first got the car running again and 
it was 
> the CO.  If it's too low it will backfire and appear sluggish.  
This is most 
> likely your problem.  If you're having trouble with your O2 Sensor 
you can 
> unplug to "default enrich" your mixture via the Frequency Valve.  
This quick 
> fix has helped a few cars around here get back on the road.
> 
> >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor 
positioning)
> >Date: Tue, 02 Aug 2005 01:20:23 -0000
> >
> >Thank you Jeff Friday. Good thing you told me to check the timing,
> >must have been around 40 degrees (!). So I adjust it back to 13, it
> >idles smooth, and so far has been starting up quickly (tomorrow
> >morning is the ultimate test). Also readjusted CO. But it now back
> >fires more anytime you let off the gas (it backfired before but not
> >nearly as much), AND I'm lacking serious power- I'd step on the gas
> >before and the car would boogie, now it's sluggish. I changed the
> >advance diaphram last year so I know that it's good (will double 
check
> >tomorrow), vac lines are silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
> >-----Dani B. #5003
> >
> >
> >
> >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jeff Friday" 
<DeLorean_Type304@xxxx>
> >wrote:
> > > I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced.  
It
> >popped and
> > > ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way 
over
> >to one
> > > side of the alignment area.  The distributor was off by one 
tooth
> >where it
> > > meets the camshaft.  I pulled the distributor and aligned the 
motor
> >by hand
> > > (valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and 
be
> >sure the
> > > motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the 
distributor the
> > > position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I 
checked the
> > > timing after the car was running.  I had to move the 
distributor a few
> > > millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a 
perfect 13
> > > degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out.
> > >
> > > Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing 
plate.
> >  You
> > > can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store.  
Also when
> > > aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on 
the
> >right of
> > > the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the
> >number 6
> > > cylinder.
> > >
> > > Jeff in NC
> > >
> > > P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor 
is
> >aligned
> > > properly.  CO balance is very inportant.  You can smell the 
exhaust
> >and tell
> > > right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near 
it.  Also
> > > gauge the heat with your hand.  I don't personally know your 
mechanical
> > > ability but that's a trick I use.  An easier way to get proper 
CO if
> >you
> > > don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen 
for the
> > > Frequency Valve.  It will cease to make a continuous buzzing 
noise
> >if too
> > > rich.  play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to 
both
> >the engine
> > > and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be 
just
> >below
> > > the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate 
counterclockwise from
> > > richer to lean.  The instant the valve comes on and remains 
constant
> >once
> > > the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole.  The car 
will
> >run
> > > perfectly from that point out.
> > >
> > > Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case
> >replace or
> > > unplug.  Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture 
and the
> > > Frequency Valve buzzes to life.  We used that solution on a 
couple
> >cars here
> > > in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a 
dream.
> > >
> > > >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
> > > >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> > > >Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor 
positioning)
> > > >Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000
> > > >
> > > >I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but 
encountered some
> > > >problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter 
clockwise
> > > >from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle
> > > >condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to 
mention
> > > >vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the 
centerline will
> > > >give me the same results as described above, just a bit less 
popping.
> > > >When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the 
centerline, the
> > > >engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is 
off for 5
> > > >minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it 
won't
> > > >start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is 
with a
> > > >great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor 
and
> > > >adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, 
I run it
> > > >CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with 
bad rock
> > > >and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? 
Is
> > > >there something else I need to replace in order to get it to 
start
> > > >right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
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> >
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> >
> >
> >
> >
> >
> >







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