Re: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

["stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

Thank you Jeff Friday. Good thing you told me to check the timing,
must have been around 40 degrees (!). So I adjust it back to 13, it
idles smooth, and so far has been starting up quickly (tomorrow
morning is the ultimate test). Also readjusted CO. But it now back
fires more anytime you let off the gas (it backfired before but not
nearly as much), AND I'm lacking serious power- I'd step on the gas
before and the car would boogie, now it's sluggish. I changed the
advance diaphram last year so I know that it's good (will double check
tomorrow), vac lines are silicone. Any suggestions? Thanks again!
-----Dani B. #5003



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Jeff Friday" <DeLorean_Type304@xxxx>
wrote:
> I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced.  It
popped and 
> ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way over
to one 
> side of the alignment area.  The distributor was off by one tooth
where it 
> meets the camshaft.  I pulled the distributor and aligned the motor
by hand 
> (valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and be
sure the 
> motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the distributor the 
> position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I checked the 
> timing after the car was running.  I had to move the distributor a few 
> millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a perfect 13 
> degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out.
> 
> Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing plate.
 You 
> can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store.  Also when 
> aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on the
right of 
> the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the
number 6 
> cylinder.
> 
> Jeff in NC
> 
> P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor is
aligned 
> properly.  CO balance is very inportant.  You can smell the exhaust
and tell 
> right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near it.  Also 
> gauge the heat with your hand.  I don't personally know your mechanical 
> ability but that's a trick I use.  An easier way to get proper CO if
you 
> don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen for the 
> Frequency Valve.  It will cease to make a continuous buzzing noise
if too 
> rich.  play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to both
the engine 
> and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be just
below 
> the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate counterclockwise from 
> richer to lean.  The instant the valve comes on and remains constant
once 
> the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole.  The car will
run 
> perfectly from that point out.
> 
> Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case
replace or 
> unplug.  Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture and the 
> Frequency Valve buzzes to life.  We used that solution on a couple
cars here 
> in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a dream.
> 
> >From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
> >Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> >Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
> >Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000
> >
> >I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some
> >problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise
> >from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle
> >condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention
> >vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will
> >give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping.
> >When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the
> >engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5
> >minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't
> >start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a
> >great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and
> >adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it
> >CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock
> >and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is
> >there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start
> >right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)






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