RE: [DMCForum] Re: Removing ball joints to install Grady collars

["John Hervey" <john@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Walt, Rich and group.
Walt, Thanks for saying support the vendors. But let me say this also,
shims
may have to be used on the new ones anyway. When the ball joint was
originally pressed in, naturally it expands the metal and it doesn't go
back
to the original specification. Then you have rust and ware to consider.
Even the new ones made to the same specifications trying to go into an old
hole may need a little help on tightening. They aren't made larger to
expand
the hole more. Rob's collar or shims either way may have to be used.
John
FYI


  -----Original Message-----
  From: Walter Coe [mailto:Whalt@xxxxxxx]
  Sent: Saturday, November 22, 2003 10:49 PM
  To: DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
  Subject: [DMCForum] Re: Removing ball joints to install Grady collars


  About reusing original ball joint: I'm not sure if you could
  remove it without damage.  The parameter of the joint has a
  gear tooth/knurling pattern in it to help it grip in the
  lower control arm.  If the sleeve/hole in the lower control
  arm is wallowed out, PJ Grady's collar may help tighten it
  up a bit.  It didn't help enough on Tom's car, so we used
  some pieces from an old feeler gauge as shims.

  I seem to remember lower ball joints selling for less than
  $20 each at Advance Discount Autoparts.  I have the
  cross-reference # written down here somewhere.  It's the
  same as an old Volkswagen Beetle.  If you splurge on having
  a vendor send you the "correct" part then have them send you
  some air for your tires, too.  Don't trust that air that you
  can pick up just anywhere.  Support our vendors damn it!

  Walt


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