RE: [DML] Re: update on #2613
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RE: [DML] Re: update on #2613



If you are leaking in the valley of death it may take some time to fill
up again enough to show the leak on level ground.  The leaking radiator
fluid can eventually eat through the metal in the top of the engine
block, ruining it.

 

From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of Farrar Hudkins
Sent: Tuesday, April 15, 2008 11:51 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: update on #2613

 

Hi, Louie.

Sorry I'm responding to e-mails out of order here... Gmail sorts
things backwards from the program on my laptop. :P

Would you suggest doing the VoD tear-down before or after I drive it
to NC? Now that the car is on level ground it doesn't seem to be
leaking anything. (Or maybe that is because it's not as cold right
now.) I will be driving up in June a few days in advance of the DCS...
what do you think? Is VoD leakage that dangerous?

Farrar

On 4/14/08, Louie <louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:louie%40delorean.com> >
wrote:
>
>
>
>
>
>
> Something I learned with my second DeLorean is just because you have
> a newer water pump doesn't mean the hoses in the Valley O' Death are
> new! My water pump on VIN 5252 was about 4 years old when it went.
> My car's previous owner told me that he installed the pump without
> taking the intake manifold off. Sure enough when Jeff Friday and I
> tore the car down to the Valley, the original, hugely swollen, and
> rotten coolant hose on the back of the pump was still original. My
> valley was flooded with coolant... so my car was not only loosing
> coolant through the weephole because the bearings in the pump were
> shot, but it was also losing water where the hose on the back was
> rotting, ill fitted, and the coolant y-pipe was corroded.
> Interestingly enough, everyone was saying that the reason my pump
> went bad so fast is the fact the car had the stainless heat shield
> on the muffler vs the stock asbestos one. Everyone seemed to think
> those actually RADIATED heat vs deflecting it.
>
> I suggest you get into the Valley of your car and take a look at
> what all is going on Farrar. I guarantee you that's where your
> coolant leak is coming from. You can also properly connect your
> spark plug wires while you're in there :-). Plus we already know
> your car needs the vacuum components replaced in the valley because
> of it's idle problem. When we tore VIN 5252 down to the valley we
> replaced everything possible... spark plugs, spark plug wires, o-
> rings, paper gaskets, water pump, all vacuum components, vacuum
> lines, cap and rotor, coolant y-pipe, coolant hoses, etc. It's
> better to have the car torn down totally one time versus tinkering
> with it repeatedly :-).
>
> Louie Golden
> Charlotte, NC
> Past owner of VINS 10115 and 5252
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com> ,
"Farrar Hudkins" <fhudkins@...>
> wrote:
>
> > When we were under the car (looking for the washer we dropped while
> > replacing the ignition coil), I noticed bright green fluid dripping
> > from the transmission case. The car was on an incline so I parked
> it
> > on a level surface last night when I got the car home and we'll see
> > where the drip is coming from at the end of today.
> >
> > My water pump and all the hoses are less than three years old so
> > finding this leak should be fun!
> >
> > Farrar Hudkins
> > #2613 (auto)
>
> 

 



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