RE: [DML] Gas tank
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RE: [DML] Gas tank



Start by cleaning out the tank as outlined previously.


Next go to the auto parts store and buy a really cheap electric generic
fuel pump (I think I got one for $15 or so), misc. wire and electrical
connectors to make it run off your battery, nut, bolt and washers per
below,  two small utility tubs, a couple feet of fuel  hose, 4 to 6
cheap clear plastic inline fuel filters with visible paper media, and a
gallon of B-12 fuel system cleaner.


Have a new fuel filter from your favorite vendor and a gallon of fresh
gas in a can ready to go too.


Go to the fuel distributor and disconnect the fuel feed line and the
fuel return line.  Use a long, narrow bolt with fender washers and
rubber washers through the two banjo bolts on the end of those hoses, so
that they are tied together and fuel will pass from the feed into the
return.  With a few washers and gentle tightening yu can get a seal
that's 99% effective at the low pressure that the cheap-o fuel pump will
generate.  Nevertheless, put a small tub under that connection and put a
cable tie around each of the hoses a few inches from the end to help
deflect any fluid running down the hose to drip into your basin.


Then up in the front boot hook the output of your fuel pump to the
engine feed hose,  and put a length of spare hose on the input side of
the pump.  Plug the first of your cheap fuel filters onto the end of the
return hose, and then put an extension hose (if you like) on the output
of the filter.


Place both ends of your extended feed and return lines into the second
tub, I used an oil change catch basin.  Pour in a pint or two of the
B12,  start the pump and start flushing the system.  As the fluid
recirculates it will darken - crud and particles will show up in your
paper filter.  Run it for a a while, until the filter gets really nasty
or the fluid gets to a consistent color, then dump the fluid, change the
filter, and start again.  Do this several times until eventually the
fluid stays clean pretty clean and clear.  


Now replace the car's fuel filter and any other hoses,  accumulator, etc
that you have already decided to swap out, and run it one more time with
B12 if your paranoid like I was, or flush the system with fresh gas.  


Important - be prepared to work pretty much straight through from the
beginning of flushing till the end and putting gas through the system
again without stopping overnight.  B12 is a good cleaner, but you
wouldn't want it in your accumulator or other rubber components for an
extended period of time.  I chose not to run it through the distributor
either.  My entire fuel system was pretty bad, but because I never
forced dirty gas and crud into the distributor, it was fine.


After this basic flush is done, put your fuel system back together.
Make sure to replace the tiny O-ring in the front of the fuel
distributor at the primary pressure regulator (see Hervey's fuel page
for reference) - and give her a go.  Make sure the frequency valve is
working properly once its running. 


You may consider sending the injectors out for cleaning after running it
for a tank or two,  maybe even put another fresh fuel filter on after
several tanks if it was bad - but unless your car is a lot worse than
mine was, you should be fine...


Good Luck.



10902 (running fine)






From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of ctdmc83
Sent: Tuesday, May 01, 2007 10:21 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: Re: [DML] Gas tank



My D's tank was filled two years ago (but no STA-BIL added), and due 
to circumstances beyond my control has not been started since. I'm 
going to pull the fuel pump etc. and drain/clean the tank. I would 
very much appreciate seeing your procedure on flushing the fuel 
lines/system. Does your procedure also flush old fuel from the the 
fuel distributor?

Thanks Much!


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <> , "Tom
Tait" <TTait@...> wrote:
> Jon:
> Oh yeah, absolutely. You never want to pull out the tank unless you
> really, really have to. The pump comes pretty much straight out, 
> will need to disconnect the fuel pickup line, and then there is a 
> nut holding down the baffle assembly. The baffle assembly flexes 
> crushes partially flat to pull out, but its no big deal. 
> If you have all that stuff out its worth really cleaning out your 
tank -
> and that can be a mess if there is sludge - but its really worth 
> Get all the gas out (you can use a cheap $12 fuel pump and some 
hoses to
> get the last of the fuel out.) Then go at it with carburetor 
> and clean rags/paper towels. You're not done until you have 
jammed your
> arm through the access hole and gotten every possible inch of the 
> top and bottom and your rags are coming out pristine. At this 
point the
> tank is virtually good as new in most cases, and all this was much
> easier than pulling it out.
> Make sure to replace the fuel pickup line and the pickup screen at 
> minimum. The upper and lower fuel pump rubber boots should 
probably be
> replaced, and the rubber seal at the top of the fuel level sending 
> has an alternate baffle kit to consider when you 
> putting it all back together - it has pros and cons but I'm happy 
> it. 
> Replace your fuel filter back on the way to the engine too. 
> I figured out a procedure for flushing tar and sludge out of 
most of
> the fuel lines/system too if anyone needs that give a holler.
> Happy Motoring.
> Tom
> 10902
> ________________________________
> From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <>
[mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <> ] On 
> Of Jon
> Sent: Wednesday, April 18, 2007 1:32 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <> 
> Subject: [DML] Gas tank
> Is it possible to get the fuel pump/pickup assembly
> out of the tank while the tank is still mounted in the
> car? The whole pickup mechanism looks as if it needs
> to be drawn out at an angle, and I'm not sure if this
> can be done with the tank is in the car. Thanks.
> Jon
> #3215
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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