RE: [DML] FanZilla versus the EBay competitor for Fan Controller Idle St
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RE: [DML] FanZilla versus the EBay competitor for Fan Controller Idle Stall

[MODERATOR NOTE: While I feel this is a legitimate topic for DML discussion, the thread continues to sneak in more and more things said outside the DML.  We frown on this tactic.  If you are going to post the words of non-DMLers, please indicate that you are doing so with their permission.  Also, please do not use the DML to argue with fellow DMLers about something they said in private.  - Mike Substelny, DML moderator of the week]

Please note-This post is a little long

John and the DML group,

Since you brought my name into this I feel obliged to respond. You're right
I don't really care for your "fan fix" as I bought one to test when they
first came out and found it was nothing more than an oversized relay in a
conduit box. I see from your website that you've spiffed it up a bit with a
fancier box and added ATC fuse-holders but it's still just a large, and
noisy when cycling on/off, relay. The "Fanzilla" is much quieter and
smoother in operation than the "fan fix". People can say whatever they want
but my experience leads me to always use the best quality part but not
always the cheapest as my reputation depends on it. If your fix was better
I'd buy it from you! The fuse-holders you use are the very ones that cause
all the meltdowns and potential fires when used as the standard "fan fail
link" in the relay update kits most venders sell. Hopefully they'll hold up
better in your application.
In twenty four years of DeLorean repairs I have never seen a fire or
meltdown in the factory supplied cooling fan circuit wiring loom and that’s
a simple fact. However I have seen many fan fail link meltdowns (especially
in cars from warmer climates) and recently (he picked up the car last week)
a fire caused by a link meltdown on a new customer's car as he drove down
from Massachusetts to have us do a "major service". This car was restored,
and the link wire installed, by a major vender six years before this to the
tune of twenty five "large". This link combined with a cooler temp fan
sender installed at the time (which caused the fans to run nonstop in warm
weather) overheated the link until it burst into flames! By the way his
stock wiring was unscathed although several relays were toast. I have a
picture that would prove it.  Fan fail links combined with cooling senders
that stay on too long or are eliminated entirely with an on/off switch are
what cause these problems. You mention having sold "over 200 units". That is
about one fifth of the "Fanzilla's" I've sold in the last twelve years and
we've had very few problems and NO meltdowns or overheated engine failures
on "Zilla" equipped cars. To say your unit is better than the "Fanzilla" is
IMHO pure nonsense. The "fan fix" is cheaper however so it may be better
than a fan fail link for those owners who can't afford "Zilla" products.
Cheaper doesn't make it better, or as good as, it just makes it cheaper.
Open up any "Zilla" product and you will find a lot of electrical parts...
not just a relay.
Shain told me that you threatened him with legal action which frankly is a
bully tactic if it's true. You have no more right to sue him than I do you
after you adopted the "Zilla" idea around nine years after we introduced it.
It's your right to make a cheaper part just as it is Shains. IMHO The
"Zilla" line of products are the most sophisticated and time tested
electrical upgrades that exist for the DeLorean. It is unfortunate that they
are currently unavailable and at least part of the reason is the cheaper
knockoff "Fan Fixes" and tank senders. How many different choices of parts
can be offered for a car, that saw a production run of under nine thousand,
before some of them become financially unfeasible, like "Tankzilla" for
instance, to produce? 
When they are available again you can be sure I'll be using them in our
customer's cars but in the meantime I've tested Shains fan controller and
think highly enough of it to use it as an acceptable alternative to
"Fanzilla" at this time. Although we don't have Shains fan controller on our
web-site yet we are offering it in limited supply and at a somewhat lower
price than the "FZ". Its microprocessor design is quite impressive. Mark
Levy, always the optimist, called it "overkill" but isn't that better than
half-baked? Interested parties can please call our toll free line for the
details if they wish.
 I don't wish to offend you John and I want the group to know that we use
and sell some of your products as you do ours but friends should be allowed
to express frank opinions and still be friends....right? You have simply
taken too many pot-shots at the "Zilla" product line for me to ignore it
publicly and still be credible.  Let's be friends and, where we differ, you
sell yours and I'll sell mine.



-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
John Hervey
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 7:23 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] FanZilla versus the Ebay competitor for Fan Controller
Idle Stall

What do you mean you were not talking about me, You told me over the phone
that you and Rob didn't like it. You change the inrush current which last
maybe 1 or 2 milliseconds but you don't change the run current where the
damage is done. Keep the hot wire away from the cars wiring loom which is
what I do and rest better. Staggering is to me more of a cover up of other
problems that exist. Eliminate the high inrush current or run current and
then you have done something. Until then any device used in the fan circuit
is a temporary fix.  
John Hervey

-----Original Message-----
From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf Of
Sent: Friday, October 21, 2005 6:05 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: RE: [DML] FanZilla versus the Ebay competitor for Fan Controller
Idle Stall


Although I was not talking about your unit,  it is configured similarly.
Actually it is easier to mount a fusible link right after the battery, then
drilling holes in the vehicle.  Also by staggering the activation of each
fan you reducing the current flow in the wire loom,  so it will never come
close to reaching 60 amps.


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