Re: [DML] LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

Re: [DML] LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

Chris and others, thanks for the emails and info.  However, I've been 
looking through the schmatic and pics of others relay compartments and to be 
honest, NONE of it makes sense.  Even in the pics of others relay 
compartments I've recieved, they all pretty much look different. However, 
the red wire that's in this pic (that I originally thought was possibly 
power due to it being red but couldn't figure out why it was grounded like 
it is in this pic)

 is actually the ground for all of the 6 relays I have.  The weird thing is 
it ACTUALLY goes into the DeLorean wiring harness as a red wire! And its a 
ground!!??!  That REALLY blew my mind that a red wire would be a ground and 
to make matters worse, most all of the wires (related to the cooling system 
setup) are brown or brown/orange.  I can't seem to find a brown/slate 
anywhere! (The one I thought was a brown/slate was actually a brown.) Aren't 
most brown wires in the D constant power wires?  I did find the 40 amp 
circuit breaker but it makes no sense whatsoever looking at the wiring going 
to it compared to the wiring diagram.  Here is a pic of it. ( I'm guessing 
this is it due to it being the 40 amp and not the 25.  )

I've cleaned up the relay compartment and redid a lot of the wiring problems 
that were there along with heat shrinking the new connections.....however, 
the last thing left is the cooling fan setup.  Does everyone think it would 
be easier to just put it back the way it was (I really don't wana do that 
though) or, should I try to ohm out the wires (which would be a pain) and 
put it back stock then hook up the new fan fail fix?  I have the blue relay 
socket wired as the following according to the wiring schmatic of the D.  I 
have the green/blacks on the side terminals, however, there is a 14 guage 
brown/orange stock wire that is in the center of the relay socket (that 
wasn't cut and was stock setup) that goes to the 'fan fail light'.  The back 
slot is hooked up to just a brown wire in this pic.(on the relay it was 
hooked to the BAT terminal)

 This is the wire that worries me as in the manual it shows its SUPPOSED to 
be a brown/slate that's coming from the 40 amp circuit breaker and nothing 
is coming from that circuit breaker.  Plus the fact that I'm missing the 
cooling fan relay socket altogether as well. :( Any thoughts or suggestions 
would be GREATLY appreciated!

Thanks again for everyone's time and help on this!


----- Original Message ----- 
From: "Chris Almy" <chris.almy@xxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Sunday, September 25, 2005 3:27 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] LONG! Electrical experts: Fan relay wiring help

> Duke,
> Looking over the wiring and pictures, it looks like the mechanic at least
> did the job correctly (although a bit ugly). Each fan has a relay and 
> fuse,
> so the current setup is safe. However, I wouldn't bother trying to get the
> wiring back to stock. It may not be long enough now and you don't want to
> have a bunch of short jumpers in there. So if I was you, I would cut the
> ends off the fan controller and use butt connectors (or better yet solder)
> and connect it directly to the car's wiring.
> Let's start with the connector that has the two fused wires. These two
> wires provide power to the fans. Connect each one to the black/green wires
> (order is not important). The third remaining smaller wire on the 
> connector
> is for the fan fail light. This isn't necessary, but it connects to the
> purple/brown wire if you can find it.
> On the other fan controller connector, there are two wires. The green wire
> is the ground. Just connect this to any ground point or ground wire. The
> red wire is the 12V trigger wire. This connects to the black/orange wire.
> But from your diagram, you have a black/brown. Follow this wire and see if
> it connects to a black/orange. If not, test to confirm it's the trigger
> wire. You can do this by checking for 12V when the AC compressor has 
> cycled
> on. And with the compressor cycled off and a cool engine, there should be 
> 0
> volts.
> Finally, there is the main power wire for the controller. Just run this
> directly to the battery. The brown/slate wire is no longer necessary.
> Remove them from where they split off the brown wire. Wrap the brown wire
> up in electrical tape or heat shrink tubing to prevent it from shorting.
> I hope this helps. Should you want to restore to the factory had it, you
> can still skip the circuit breaker connections, because it's bypassed by
> the fan controller. Page M:18:10 of the workshop manual has the schematic
> for this system, which may be helpful.
> Chris
> VIN 4099

To address comments privately to the moderating team, please address:

For more info on the list, tech articles, cars for sale see

To search the archives or view files, log in at 
Yahoo! Groups Links

<*> To visit your group on the web, go to:

<*> To unsubscribe from this group, send an email to:

<*> Your use of Yahoo! Groups is subject to:

Home Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN

Copyright 2006  All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
DMCForum Mailing List Archive  DMCNews Mailing List Archive  DMC-UK Mailing List Archive