[DML] Re: Piston rings + sleeves

["stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>]

As far as parts, I would feel better using new parts but if the used
ones have a small enough amount of wear then used would be fine. The
fuel system parts will be removed as soon as I can located the A
series manifold to bolt a carb to. Oil consumption is hard to tell
because the drain plug has a slight leak, but I still doubt there is
any oil burning. I have yet to do the compression test, there is only
66 thousand on the engine but it has had abuse with hi revs and etc,
and also has sat idling for a large amount of hours (according to the
PO). There is a knock (cylinder 1 I believe) at low RPMs under load,
while this may be just a valve problem (doesn't sound like loose rod)
I'd still feel better moving with a rebuilt engine especially since I
will have no tools or garage to tinker in. Digging into the engine is
no problem for me, I rebuild engines all the time (which I'm kind of
tired of but hey, whats a few more?). While the engine does run and
works to get the car from here to there, it runs rough. I have made
all kinds of adjustments, I can't get the idling down to where it
should be and it vibrates as well as "pops" during idle. I've adjusted
all the brass screws with slight effects (did bring idle down a very
small amount) Any range RPM
holding it (say holding it at 3K) it will hold but be rough running.
New fuel pump, filter, cleaned injectors, all new lines, idle motor is
working and switch is functioning, new wires new cap and rotor. And on
top of all that, there is a hot start problem (unless I turn the
distributor CCW which makes it idle even higher and run slightly
rougher). Imstead of asking all kinds of questions and spending hours
trying to find out why this is, carburetion is basic and what I'm used
to. -----Dani B. #5003








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