[DML] Re: Dani's New Engine

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Why don't you buy a running Volvo and transfer the block (you'll have
to swap your lower engine casting or make some custom motor mounts --
Volvo's bolt on traditionally vs cast bosses). Very affordable: a '76
260 (B27F) went for $800 on eBay last month. A running Volvo would
allow you to drive your new engine home rather than haul it, and test
it out in the process.

Doesn't help the manifold situation I know, but at least you'd have an
engine ready to go.

Irrespective of performance merits of carburetion vs fuel injection, a
carb is much less expensive. My conversion cost less than $300 start
to finish.

And there's absolutely no comparison between them Re: access for
maintenance. At Pigeon Forge I popped my intake manifold off to
retrieve a dropped screwdriver (that's how accessible the Valley of
Death is) *WHILE* pumping gas. Of course the ignition distributor,
clutch slave, heater core shutoff valve, etc are all laid bare. My
fuel filter is a simple cartridge located in the engine compartment,
held to standard low PSI rubber lines with squeeze clamps. Vacuum
system consists of just two hoses -- one ported directly to the
distributor and one full directly to the brake booster/HVAC ducting
(Tee'd after a check valve). PCV was retained with a traditional valve
rather than the calibrated nipple.

Contact me off List when you're ready to start the conversion:
brobertson(at)carolina.net.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> As far as parts, I would feel better using new parts but if the used
> ones have a small enough amount of wear then used would be fine. The
> fuel system parts will be removed as soon as I can located the A
> series manifold to bolt a carb to. Oil consumption is hard to tell
> because the drain plug has a slight leak, but I still doubt there is
> any oil burning. I have yet to do the compression test, there is only
> 66 thousand on the engine but it has had abuse with hi revs and etc,
> and also has sat idling for a large amount of hours (according to the
> PO). There is a knock (cylinder 1 I believe) at low RPMs under load,
> while this may be just a valve problem (doesn't sound like loose rod)
> I'd still feel better moving with a rebuilt engine especially since I
> will have no tools or garage to tinker in. Digging into the engine is
> no problem for me, I rebuild engines all the time (which I'm kind of
> tired of but hey, whats a few more?). While the engine does run and
> works to get the car from here to there, it runs rough. I have made
> all kinds of adjustments, I can't get the idling down to where it
> should be and it vibrates as well as "pops" during idle. I've adjusted
> all the brass screws with slight effects (did bring idle down a very
> small amount) Any range RPM
> holding it (say holding it at 3K) it will hold but be rough running.
> New fuel pump, filter, cleaned injectors, all new lines, idle motor is
> working and switch is functioning, new wires new cap and rotor. And on
> top of all that, there is a hot start problem (unless I turn the
> distributor CCW which makes it idle even higher and run slightly
> rougher). Imstead of asking all kinds of questions and spending hours
> trying to find out why this is, carburetion is basic and what I'm used
> to. -----Dani B. #5003








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