Tuning Idle Speed Circuit. (was: Re: idle problem)

["David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx>]

By allowing air to go through the "brass screws" or the manual idle
circuit you are reducing the amount of control that the idle motor has
over the idle speed. It cannot compensate (control) the idle as well.
In one sense it is like vacuum leaks. IMHO either stay with the idle
motor circuit or leave it, I don't see how you can have both. For what
it's worth I believe in trying to keep the car running with the stock
systems to the extent possible. No, I do not have a fan fail relay or
an origional lock module but I do have the idle set up as "normal"
(stock) and it is rock stable with the A/C, lights, hot, cold, in all
conditions. This is a result of a complete tune-up and fixing all
vacuum leaks and setting the motor up properly. I have done this on
several cars and I know it can be done. It isn't cheap, you have to
replace some 20 year old ignition parts and old rubber but it can be
done if you want to. The idle system CANNOT compensate for an out of
tune engine or worn parts. If you would rather toss the idle system
IMHO you give up a lot. The idle cannot compensate for varying loads
so if you want to run the A/C at idle now you are forced to raise the
idle so you don't kill the motor when you turn it on. In some States
(like New Jersey) you won't pass the emissions testing. Just My Humble
Opinion. Owners are free to choose what they want to do with their cars.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxx> wrote:
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "checksix3" <jetjock11@xxxx> wrote:
> > ...I have yet to see the proper way to set up the idle speed system 
> > (the Bosch recommended method) in any post or archive.
> <SNIP>
> 
> I know I've seen the procedure before, but I can't remember if it was