RE: [DML] Torsion bar stuck to retainer

["IN2TIME" <Gary@xxxx>]

We have adjusted al lot of PNDC members' torsion bars at our tech
sessions. When the plate is corroded to the torsion bar, liquid wrench
and slow prying (for as much as 20 minutes of aggravatingly slow
movement) has always worked, followed by wire brushing and occasionally
some minor filing. I always look to make sure we are not prying the bar
out of the front socket, but this has never been a problem. I don't
think we have run into a spread or split hex hole. 

You cannot release the torsion on the bar with the plate in place,
without damaging the roof/window. 

I always have a tap, tap handle, and some spare plate bolts handy,
because we often find that a previous adjuster has cross-threaded one or
more of the bolts. Cross-threading is easy to do when you are trying to
line up the bolt with the hole through a plate that must be kept aligned
rotationally and laterally. It you have to force it, something is wrong.
I prefer to put the bolt in most of the way by hand. This is possible if
you "chase" the hole with the tap if necessary, and make minor
adjustments to the plate as you finger-tighten the bolts. 

Usually a one-spline rotation of the plate is enough to tighten or
loosen the torsion enough to correct the sag or bounce. It is always
best to install a new strut first (or to at least try a new strut to see
if it makes a difference).

Hope this helps.

Gary
www.IN2TIME.com