Re: Torsion bar stuck to retainer

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

If I understand Dave Swingle, your problem likely was hex tool not
seated completely in retainer (obviously came loose once -- lucky you
didn't crack the back window too). If tool is not fully seated, will
distort splined end of torsion bar just enough to lock into retainer.
Fellow I travelled with had same problem. Dave was able to slowly rock
it off with small pry bars on either side of retainer (where bolts
attach to the car).

To avoid this, he repeatedly raps the hex tool into the retainer with
a hammer throughout the whole procedure. 

Torsion bar will also freeze into receptacle at front of car -- have
to use same hex tool in the other direction to literally "crack" free.

Note that over torqued torsion bars will tear the metal plate over the
back window loose from the car and distort it. Our cars have precious
little metal in them to begin with -- don't want to mangle what's there.

I watched Dave's every step. I understood everything he did. And I'm
still not going to attempt the procedure myself. Perhaps one day, but
not now. If there's a club or *able* mechanic within any sort of
driving distance, I again recommend making the trip, even if it's an
overnight.

Add to the list of things you can tear up: the torsion bars themselves
(apparently even a minute scrape will magnify into a major fracture
under their stress). 

Bill Robertson
#5939

> For some reason the plate holding my passenger 
> door torsion bar is fixed solid to it. I'm thinking it may be glued 
> to the torsion bar for some reason. No getting it loose whatsoever.
> Your worse nightmare can then come true as the tool we were using 
> gave out under the intense stress and suddenly I had a nice hole 
> in my roof:-( (mental note, remove roof plate next time).
> 
> 
> Greetz,
> 
> Bas Olij
> 
> >Am fresh back from day trip to get torsion bars adjusted (and a nap to
> >compensate for 4 hours sleep -- hey Louie, can you spell "road trip").
> >
> >IMHO, this is not an optional procedure. Put it on your short list w/
> >cooling system modifications etc. Door struts are wonderful, and they
> >serve a purpose, but they are not a substitute for *proper* torsion
> >bar adjustment.
> >
> >Key word here is "proper": this is not a procedure for the novice.
> >Definitely is not to be performed solo. Risk of damage to car or self
> >is great -- take the vehicle to a tech clinic or guru.
> >
> >FWIW: 10 hour freeway burn did wonders for my Volvoized PRV (as did
> >adjusting back towards original throttle bypass settings -- some of us
> >don't have the luxury of a Lambda unit and all the things it's
> >apparently supposed to control). Don't hide your D or let it sit idle
> >in a garage or barn (or drive it as if it were made of porcelain).
> >Lot's of opinions about lots of aspects of the car, but I think
> >everyone can agree that it needs lots of room to run.
> >
> >Bill Robertson
> >#5939
> >
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> 
> 
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