Re: [DML] Headlight Switch Problem.

["Walter" <Whalt@xxxx>]

I have solved this problem before. The fix is to disassemble the switch and
add some non-hardening gorilla snot at the point where the long
staple-looking wire pivots.

My original switch didn't latch well, so I bought a NOS one from a vendor.
This new switch didn't latch well either. I disassembled both switches and
saw nothing wrong with them -- no worn or bent or melted parts. It seemed
that the switch was just a poor design. Out of frustration, I cut a hole in
the side of one so that I could actually see what was happening inside while
it was all together. To my amazement, I discovered the problem. The design
of the switch relies on friction at the pivot point where the long
staple-looking wire mounts in the base. If there is not enough friction at
this point, then the other end of the 'staple' will not find its way
properly though the labyrinth.

When these switches are new, there is probably enough friction to allow most
of them to work. But the more they are used, the more the pivot point
loosens up. Even the brand-new switch was too loose inside to work
properly. The fix -- just put some kind of flexible adhesive in there at
the pivot point. Perhaps a little 3M general trim adhesive, some rubber
cement, or try what I used -- Permatex non-hardening Form-A-Gasket. My
switch has latched perfectly ever since.

Another tip is to install the switch so that the side with the white key-way
post is facing the passenger side of the car. In this orientation, if the
pivot point loosens up too much then gravity will help the mechanism to at
least get your running lights on. If it loosens up while put in the other
way, then gravity may stop it from latching at all.

Otherwise, I've heard stories from various people: Press it real hard and
fast / press it on the upper right corner / jiggle it while you push it in,
etc. Basically any latching problem can be fixed by stiffing up the pivot
point.

Another problem I had with my switch is the socket on the back was too
loose. I tried to tighten the connections, but couldn't get the thing apart
without destroying it. So I ended up replacing the socket with individual
spade-lug terminals. I used electrician's numbered tape to label the wires
so that the next guy can figure out where they belong.

Another head light switch tip (this one given to me by Rob Grady): When
pressing the button, use two fingers on either side of the switch, and keep
your fingers away from the center. This will stop the headlight symbol from
wearing away. If it does wear off, then it really looks bad especially at
night when you can see the backlight shining through.

Walt Tampa, FL