Re: [DML] Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?

[Eric Itzel <eric@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hey List

On this subject of trailing arm bolts- I may have missed the answer to this
question so I'm gonna ask it again.

I have an automatic transmission and I'm getting ready to replace my
trailing arm bolts. I seem to remember someone saying that it was a pain to
replace the bolts in an automatic because the fatter transmission has to be
moved out of the way. Is that true? Do I need to dismount the transmission
to replace the bolts?

Thanks!

Eric Itzel
vin 4433

----- Original Message ----- 
From: <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Monday, May 10, 2004 8:19 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Trailing arm bolt procedure w/ jack stands?


> List - I thought that I'd touch on the questions - why have weight on
> the rear suspension when torqueing up the TAB's, and why have the
> joint unloaded to remove them?  In terms of removing them, when there
> is weight on the suspension, the joint (TAB, rubber bushing, and
> trailing arm) have loads on them from the camber of the rear wheels,
> and loads created by the alignment of the wheels and basic geometry
> of the rear suspension.  In order to manipulate the joint to remove
> the preloads, and allow the bolt to gracefully exit the joint, the
> car should be jacked up with the wheel off the ground (you can do one
> side at at time).  If the joint is preloaded, the bolt will be harder
> to drive out, and things can suddenly shift around when the bolt
> finally comes free.  It's best to have everything relaxed for easier
> removal.  For installation, the joint goes back together best with
> the wheel off the ground (for the same reasons as removing the TAB),
> but here's the reason for setting the car back down for the final
> torque.  The trailing arm joint is supposed to be a clamped joint.
> In other words, there should be no relative motion of the bolt,
> trailing arm, and sleeve through the bushing.  All motion is supposed
> to be in the rubber of the bushing only.  Realistically, the sleeve
> that is bonded into the bushing can tear loose fairly quickly, so the
> sleeve starts to rotate in the rubber.  However, if the rubber
> bushing is still intact (sleeve to rubber still bonded), you want to
> install everything so that the bushing is in a relaxed state with the
> car in its normal stance.  Then, the rubber has equal available
> deflection in both directions.  If the car is in the air when the
> bolts are torqued up, the rubber is twisted all the way in one
> direction to start with, which will cause premature failure of the
> rubber to sleeve bond.  If this is not clear, or you have any
> questions that arise from this, feel free to ask off-list.
>
> Toby Peterson  VIN 2248 "Winged1"
> DeLorean Parts Northwest, LLC
> www.delorean-parts.com
>
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "therealdmcvegas" <dmcvegas@xxxx>
> wrote:
> > When torquing everything back up, it's important to have the weight
> of the suspension on the car, so you don't stress the bolts. David T
> reccomends to unbolt the TABS with the weight off of the suspension.
> Why, I honestly don't know, and it's the first time that I've ever
> heard this reccomendation before, so I'm a bit curious as to what
> advantage he's seen with it.
>
>
>
>
>
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