[DML] Digest Number 1739
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[DML] Digest Number 1739



Title: [DML] Digest Number 1739

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There are 14 messages in this issue.

Topics in this digest:

      1. Re: Very strange spam IM
           From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
      2. RE: BMW/Time Machine?
           From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      3. Re: angle-drive housing
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      4. WARNING Re: Parts missing/removed from my car at Jag Shop
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      5. Re: Very strange spam IM
           From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
      6. RE: Re: idle fluctuations
           From: "Gary Hull" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      7. Re: throttle return
           From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
      8. Re: idle fluctuations
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
      9. RE: Very strange spam IM
           From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     10. Re: angle-drive
           From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
     11. :list of missing parts: Re: Parts missing/removed from my car at Jag Shop
           From: "Albert Siegel" <siegel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     12. Re: Re: angle-drive
           From: "Donald L. Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     13. Fw: Florida
           From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
     14. New GTO Article
           From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>


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Message: 1
   Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 08:49:44 -0500
   From: "Dave Stragand" <dave.stragand@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Very strange spam IM

There are several new IM spamming engines, and they can search the member
profiles and pull up key words automatically.
 
Your best bet is to remove EVERYTHING from your profile.  That's how
spammers find screen names...
 
-Dave
VIN #05927


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 2
   Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 10:15:40 -0500
   From: Travis Goodwin <tgoodwin@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: BMW/Time Machine?

Twas me. Twas me.

> -----Original Message-----
> From: Louie Golden [mailto:louie@xxxxxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, November 04, 2003 1:20 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] BMW/Time Machine?
>
> He may have emailed you privately about this, but it's one of our own list
> members, Travis Goodwin. His BTTF conversion is a temporary party trick...
> most of the time his car is bone stock.
>
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252
>
>
> --- Holler <thehauntfactory@xxxxxxx> wrote:
> Hey all,
> I didn't make it to the Eurofest gathering at the BMW plant here in
> S.C., but I heard today that for at least the second year running,
> someone brought a DeLorean Time Machine to the show.
> I know it wasn't me, so does anyone know who it was/is?  Any info would
> be fun and helpful.
> Thanks!
> Oliver Holler
> 10694 (Time-Car)



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Message: 3
   Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 15:51:22 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: angle-drive housing

Was afraid of cracking pot metal housing so didn't even attempt.
Unfortunately that's only way to replace spindle cable. I worked with
remaining cable in place instead.

Have only seen gears through lubrication hole. Appear to be worm and
cog, not 45 degree angle. Can try www.mcmaster.com or
www.grainger.com. Perhaps search for online hobby suppliers (source of
1/8" hollow square tube used in repair of my AD).

Am all for original engineering. Is often essential when dealing with
old cars.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxx>
wrote:
> Actually, my brother drilled out the back & found ANOTHER plate
behind it
> which popped out relatively easliy.  Popped it back in, then
soldered the
> drill hole on the outer plate, & ta-daaa..... still didn't work
right.  Back
> to a drawing board?        $70 to replace it.... hmmm.....   with an
> electrical engineer/tinkerer for a brother, it may very well be
cheaper to
> rebuild it.   Remember, I spent $10 on a solid SS tube for the
clutch line,
> $.04 to repair the clutch slave cyl., $.75 to replace a diode in the
ign.
> mod., & I've rewound the door-lock solonoids by hand.    Bit of Scotch,
> anyone?      I'll carry on.    Drive Stainless     Robert    VIN  6924
>
>
> From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>
> Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Re: angle-drive
> Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 16:23:37 -0000
>
> > Did you remove circular steel plate pressed into housing (against
> > back of spindle cable gear)? How difficult was it? Did it stress
> > pot metal too much?
> >
> > Apologies for so many questions. I wanted to remove that plate when
> > my spindle cable comitted suicide (to insert another) but was afraid
> > of damaging housing. Soldered repair to remaining cable instead.
> >
> > Bill Robertson
> > #5939
>
>  >--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxx>
> wrote:
> >> Greetings;    I have overhauled the a-d & found the two gears to be
> >> rather worn.




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Message: 4
   Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 16:18:48 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: WARNING Re: Parts missing/removed from my car at Jag Shop

I never said "fatboy" or Ed Bernstein are owners,managers of the Jag
shop. I don't know who "fatboy" is. I do know he uses pacbell so he is
from the west coast. We all know Ed but none of us know of any direct
connection between him and the Jag shop except for his interest in
their reputation. If anyone is contemplating using the Jag shop they
should contact the origional posters directly for any update and
opinions on going to the Jag shop. Again I say it is really easy to
damage someone's reputation, it is very hard to regain it. In the
interest of fairness no one should prejudge until the Jag shop has a
chance to settle this matter. In the meantime it would be smart to
consider alternatives to going there.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> The owner/manager sends people on the list threatening email?
>
> Wow. That's very interesting to know. Sounds like harrasment to me.
>

> Rich
> #5335
>





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Message: 5
   Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 16:11:14 -0000
   From: "therealdmcvegas" <DMCVegas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Very strange spam IM

[ With all these learned responses, I'm calling this subject closed. - Mike Substelny DML moderator of the week]
 
> I got an IM from "beachbabe02001" a few minutes ago. Of course, just
> from the screenname, I pegged it for a pornospam (I don't usually
get
> them, but whatever), and got ready to warn and block. Except that
when
> I accepted the IM, it said "I heard you like DeLoreans. Wanna chat?"
> Huh? Very strange. But it quickly became clear that whoever it was,
> they didn't want to talk. I checked the profile, and yep, it was a
> pornospam. Warn, block, done. But I'd love to know how it was that
the
> message was "I heard you like DeLoreans. Wanna chat?" Very very
> strange. They must have pulled my screenname off either the DML, the
> entermyworld.com board, or the bttf.com board. I suspect they got it
> from entermyworld.com, but who knows? It was just so surprisingly
strange.

You didn't say over what service you recieved the message. Nor, did
you say what's in your personal profile. So, if a bot were running
(which it most likely sounds like, especially on ICQ), it scans for
online users, see's you, scans your profile, rips the info from
your "Personal Interests" section, and adds it into a generic
greeting message that it IM's to you.

Once more, depending upon that personal profile that you created, it
can even further single you out. If you've filled out the personal
profile, then you've literally volunteered marketing information to
everyone: Male: 18 years, or older, and you've got that entered into
your profile? You better believe that you're gonna get slammed with
pr0n, and other adult advertisements.

Best protection? Keep your profile as blank as possible. Don't say
either whom, or what you are. Friends, family, and collegues are
going to know who you are, and they'll be able find/talk to you.
These are really the only people that are going to contact you
anyways. If you really want to meet new people online, learn to IRC.

-Robert
vin 6585 "X"




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Message: 6
   Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 08:22:31 -0800
   From: "Gary Hull" <Gary@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Re: idle fluctuations

<SNIP> What do I do if my throttle arm isn't returning all the way? </SNIP>

Louie and list,

The throttle PLATE shaft has its own spring. When my throttle PLATE spring
got weak, instead of using the throttle SPOOL spring (via the linkage rod)
to force the throttle plate closed, I took another full turn on the throttle
PLATE spring! This change allowed me to take the slack out of the rest of
the linkage.

Something that everyone should check is whether or not their "gas" pedal is
able to fully open the throttle plates. With a little slack in the cable,
and using the throttle linkage to force the throttle plate closed, this
isn't always possible. Perhaps your D is more powerful than you think????

Soooo. If the accelerator pedal controls the air flow, why isn't it called
an "air" pedal..?  :-)

Gary
IN2TIME





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Message: 7
   Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 16:10:05 -0000
   From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: throttle return

Is a return spring hooked to accelerator pedal itself (wraps around
brake booster connecting rod). Try turning it one more time.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie Golden <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> What do I do if my throttle arm isn't returning all the way? The
spring is already on the second setting. I tried lubing the linkage...
still the throttle will stick at about 1100-1400 rpm's after the car
has been driven. I can revv the engine and it will get enough momentum
to make the throttle arm return all the way. What should I do? Is a
new throttle spool spring an option? Obviously I need more tension.
>
> Louie Golden
> VIN 5252 Charlotte, NC
>
> --- "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxx> wrote:
> A couple of quick things to check:
> a vacuum hose may have fallen off or developed a leak
> The plug for the mixture screw is missing
> bad ignition wires
> sticking throttle cable not allowing the idle micro to "set"
> Dirty, fouled spark plug
> leaking cold start valve
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
>
> _____________________________________________________________
> Pre-order the updated second edition of  "DeLorean: Stainless Steel
Illusion" now! Details <a
href="" href="http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com">http://www.stainless-steel-illusion.com" target="_blank">here!</a>




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Message: 8
   Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 16:08:16 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: idle fluctuations

You really have to find out just what is causing the problem. It could
be a sticking throttle cable, tight throttle plates and shaft, worn
out quadrant link, or a hard to move throttle spool. Disconnect the
linkage and see what is not moving smoothly or sticking. I would start
with the quadrant link. Remove the pins from the ends before trying to
remove. Before taking it apart rotate the throttle spool with your
hand and watch the throttle shaft. If you can move the throtle spool a
lot before you see the throttle plates move then the quadrant link is
worn. Watch the ends and see where the play is. Lubricating may also
help a little. If the throttle cable is sticking lubricate with
anti-freeze as per the recall. If that won't help then you may have to
replace it. You can also check that a floor mat or carpet isn't
interfering with the gas pedal and the pedal itself isn't sticking.
More tension isn't going to "fix" this. Something is wrong and
throwing a bigger spring on it is not the way to go. Besides, if you
put a heavy spring on the linkage your foot will get tired quickly.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Louie Golden <louie@xxxx> wrote:
> What do I do if my throttle arm isn't returning all the way? The
spring is already on the second setting. I tried lubing the linkage...
still the throttle will stick at about 1100-1400 rpm's after the car
has been driven. I can revv the engine and it will get enough momentum
to make the throttle arm return all the way. What should I do? Is a
new throttle spool spring an option? Obviously I need more tension.
>
_________________________________________________





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Message: 9
   Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 07:39:30 -0600
   From: "K. Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Very strange spam IM

I see two possibilities:
1. you entered car and delorean information in your AIM profile; the
spam-bot uses that information in its social engineering phase to get you
interested
2. spam-bots harvested your name and the word delorean from the same site,
and ditto above.

I know I entered information like that in my profile once... and then
eventually just turned AIM and MSNM to not accept unknown IM's.
It's a shame, but that's what we are forced to do. Spam harvesting off our
site seems quite high. I don't sign up for anything and I now get a ton of
spam and I believe the spammers get my info from the dmcnews archives.

-----Original Message-----
From: f14dflyer [mailto:f14dflyer@xxxxxxxxxxx]
Sent: Monday, November 03, 2003 10:11 PM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Very strange spam IM


[MODERATOR NOTE: This message approved in the hope that
someone can explain how this happened and how to prevent
it in the future.  Please don't consider it an open
invitation to discuss the subject at length.
     - Mike Substelny DML moderator of the week]

I got an IM from "beachbabe02001" a few minutes ago. Of course, just
from the screenname, I pegged it for a pornospam (I don't usually get
them, but whatever), and got ready to warn and block. Except that when
I accepted the IM, it said "I heard you like DeLoreans. Wanna chat?"
Huh? Very strange. But it quickly became clear that whoever it was,
they didn't want to talk. I checked the profile, and yep, it was a
pornospam. Warn, block, done. But I'd love to know how it was that the
message was "I heard you like DeLoreans. Wanna chat?" Very very
strange. They must have pulled my screenname off either the DML, the
entermyworld.com board, or the bttf.com board. I suspect they got it
from entermyworld.com, but who knows? It was just so surprisingly strange.



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Message: 10
   Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 16:47:44 -0000
   From: "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: angle-drive

It is great to "tinker" and fix things on your own. I do it too. In
some cases it doesn't pay though. For example the angle drive. By the
time you get it apart, find and buy the parts, cobble it back together
and MAYBE get it to work, it isn't worth it except for the pure
enjoyment of being able to say "I did it myself". You may also find
that it doesn't last very long. For things like this where the venders
have gone over this ground it makes more sense to just break down and
open your wallet. It also helps if and when you sell the car, you can
say it has the "new and improved" angle drive. In any case lubricate
the cables and if the lower support for the lower cable is missing or
broken get or make one. In the case if the clutch cylinder, if you
flush the clutch and the brakes every 2 years and use Castrol GTLMA
you will find that the parts will last a long time. Preventitive
maintaince is ALWAYS cheaper then repairs and it has the benifit of
improved reliablity. If you have a steel tube to the clutch cylinder I
hope you allowed for some movement of the engine either with a hose or
a loop. In too many cases working on old cars you just can't get some
parts anymore so you HAVE to make do. On the Delorean we have the
luxury of being able to get many, if not all, of what we need with a
phone call!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "robert parker" <roberthparker@xxxx>
wrote:
> Actually, my brother drilled out the back & found ANOTHER plate
behind it
> which popped out relatively easliy.  Popped it back in, then
soldered the
> drill hole on the outer plate, & ta-daaa..... still didn't work
right.  Back
> to a drawing board?        $70 to replace it.... hmmm.....   with an
> electrical engineer/tinkerer for a brother, it may very well be




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Message: 11
   Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 12:24:28 -0500
   From: "Albert Siegel" <siegel@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: :list of missing parts: Re: Parts missing/removed from my car at Jag Shop

The car was in perfect mechanical condition when it was taken to the Jagshop.  The car was there for body work.  I have photographs and video footage of the car at the accident scene and after.  Lets not forget the people who looked over the car at the repair facility and body shop.  These people know what the condition was as the car was towed to the Jagshop from the body shop.  The ONLY reason it went to the Jagshop was the promise of a lower repair cost becasue Dave had spare cars to take body parts from.

It took two and a half years and the Jagshop did not do any work to the car.  I decided to pick it up and take it to another place.  It was raining when I picked it up so I did not inspect the car till I arrived at the shop.  I was shocked at what was missing.  I called David at the Jagshop and he was as nice and friendly as always.  Dave told me he must have forgotten to give me the parts and he had them in a storage truck.  I said fine.  He told me the car was not worth fixing and I should use it as a parts car.  ( I cant even do that as someone took all the parts out of the car! )  I said I would still rather fix it.  I spent the last 7 months attempting to get the parts till David finally told me he had thrown away all the parts and just said tuff luck.  He said he will not give me a thing and he will charge me 4 years of storage (car was there 2.5 years) if I tried anything and hung up on me.  I have not been able to get in contact with him and when I do he just hangs up

 . 

I really wanted to keep this private and handle this in a good way.  I do not want to damage his business.  This is after all how he lives.  But I cannot allow this to slide by.  This has and may happen to other people.  Just take a look at what is missing from the car:


PARTS MISSING:

horn
power window switch
all relays and computers
everything from the electrical bay
transmission computer
small piece of plastic for key lock in door
hinge from engine cover
alternator and bracket
tool set
spare tire
luggage rack
everything from trunk
fuel pump and everything for it
both window switches
entire brake system
back bracket/cover for torsion bar
drivers side torsion bar
glove box
left and right turn signal lights from both sides of the front
molding from driver fender (fender stripped clean??)
passenger door handle
ac control switch
entire assembly for cooling fan and radiator
radiator (I know it was damaged, but want it still)
cooling fans

The driver side mirror was damaged at the Jagshop

plus what ever I may have missed....
--
__________________________________________________________
Sign-up for your own personalized E-mail at Mail.com
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Message: 12
   Date: Tue, 04 Nov 2003 09:53:04 -0800
   From: "Donald L. Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: angle-drive

The metal plate can be easily removed by destaking it. There are three
or four places around the outside of the disk where the zink housing has
been staked. Take a dremmel tool and grind out material to allow the
disk to be removed without interference. Behind the disk is a hardened
steel disk that acts as a thrust/wear plate for one of the gears.
Because the gears are a bevel/constant mesh type they develop axial
thrust and this inner disk keeps wear to a minimum. Once inside you will
quickly see what you have to deal with. I found my gears were in fine
shape but the flex drive input shaft had failed at the internal swedge
area. Good Luck.

Don Ekhoff


robert parker wrote:

>Actually, my brother drilled out the back & found ANOTHER plate behind it
>which popped out relatively easliy.  Popped it back in, then soldered the
>drill hole on the outer plate, & ta-daaa..... still didn't work right.  Back
>to a drawing board?        $70 to replace it.... hmmm.....   with an
>electrical engineer/tinkerer for a brother, it may very well be cheaper to
>rebuild it.   Remember, I spent $10 on a solid SS tube for the clutch line,
>$.04 to repair the clutch slave cyl., $.75 to replace a diode in the ign.
>mod., & I've rewound the door-lock solonoids by hand.    Bit of Scotch,
>anyone?      I'll carry on.    Drive Stainless     Robert    VIN  6924
>
>
>From: "content22207" <brobertson@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Re: angle-drive
>Date: Sat, 01 Nov 2003 16:23:37 -0000
>

>

[long quote trimmed by moderator]



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Message: 13
   Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 12:56:13 -0500
   From: "Marvin" <marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Fw: Florida


Anyone want to join me on a visit to the Jag Shop.................out of curiosity?

I'll be in Florida Dec 24 - Jan 15.  I think it is in the Fort Lauderdale area, just off HWY # 75.
Regretfully, my car cannot join me, as it will be hibernating over the cold winter months, in a warm garage .

Marv.
# 17077
marv@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
      
    
    

 


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]




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Message: 14
   Date: Tue, 4 Nov 2003 12:26:15 -0600
   From: "Jake" <jkampho@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: New GTO Article

Greetings all,

It's worth mentioning that there's an article in Dec. 2003 Motor Trend
referencing a "pre-DeLorean John DeLorean" when speaking of the new GTO.  A
very brief mention, but at least they got the history correct.

Anybody planning on putting a new GTO next to the DeLorean in the
arage??  --Looks pretty good at $33,000....


Jake Kamphoefner





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