[doc] Re: thermo time switch part numbers

["blackaddertoo" <blackaddertoo@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Hi Mike

thanx for the info.

i'm trying to work out if it is a cold start or hot start problem.

for a few pounds i don't mind changing the sensors anyway as thry 
are all 24 years old.

Also i am going to change the thermostat and have a water leak at 
the rear of the pump so will be taking off the air intake 
system/manifold and cleaning the VOD, changing sensors etc.

regards

Steve






--- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Mike Bosworth" <mike.bosworth@xxxx> 
wrote:
> Hi Steve
> 
> After five mins of running the car the coolant temp should be way 
> above 35 deg C,its suprising how hot the coolant gets in a short 
> period of time, the switch will then remain 'open'and hence no 
> operation of the cold start valve, its an easy circuit to check 
for 
> continuity and its correct function.
> 
> I would really check for the correct operation of your engine 
cooling 
> system before you take the car out on the road. When you say you 
ran 
> the car for 'quite a long time' ...how long? After 15 - 20 mins 
the 
> car should be up to its full running temperature 180-190 F.( BTW 
the 
> temperature gauge in the car is not an exact science, but the 
needle 
> should be on or just above the line that is in the centre between 
the 
> 100 and 220 F marks ) at this point the water pump thermostat will 
be 
> open and with all coolant pipes to the radiator and back hot, the 
rad 
> fans will be kicking in and out to keep the temperature in this 
> operating range. If the fans start coming on and your gauge is 
still 
> reading 'cold' then i would suspect your temperature guage sender. 
> this screws into the inner front corner of the right hand side 
> cylinder head. 
> 
> Personally i would change out an origional 'otterstat' anyway just 
as 
> a preventitive measure.
> 
> The origional blue relay has rightly been taken out and in your 
case 
> replaced by some wire, a common 'fix' that never got 'sorted' at 
the 
> factory, these wires really should be fused and of a reasonable 
> thickness to cope with the starting current going through it to 
the 2 
> rad fans. If yours look a little 'home made' and dont have in line 
> fuses  then i would replace this with any one of a number of fixes 
> dependant upon your budget .
> 
> Suggestions
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/7zgl8
> 
> http://tinyurl.com/ap92o   ( i personally have a 'fan fail' type 
> thingy half way down the page thats made with a relay base $20 ) 
> looking at 'upgrading' sometime .
> 
> Maybe someone knows of a UK source or can make some up?
> 
> Regards
> 
> Mike
> #2001
> 403
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "blackaddertoo" 
<blackaddertoo@xxxx> 
> wrote:
> > hi
> > 
> > thanks Mike.
> > 
> > i will check but wondered after 5 mins the ground through to the 
> > cold start valve should still be there? water would be cool 
still.
> > 
> > i wondered if the bimetalic strip inside is functioning 
correctly 
> ie 
> > once it activates, it does not reset for ages or sticks untill 
> stone 
> > cold.
> > i suspect this part as the car starts fine when powering up the 
> cold 
> > start valve.
> > can't be too much wrong know with my cold start system.
> > 
> > incidently, ran the car for a few quite a long time, water pipe 
to 
> > left of engine got fairly hot temperature guage barely crawled 
up 
> > scale, just above cold. no fans kicked in (have jumped fans-they 
> > work)
> > 
> > how long should this engine run from cold to normal temp and 
then 
> to 
> > fans on if left idling?
> > am a bit nervous as i don't want to overheat.
> > 
> > i plan on changing the temp sensor for guage and fans asap.
> > Also the relay in the left hand corner of my 'box' is missing 
and 
> > some jumpers installed-not sure whats going on here!.
> > 
> > now in the process of removing the front bumper-sheared bolts 
etc.
> > 
> > regards
> > 
> > Steve
> > doc 370
> > vin1621
> > just want that MOT!!
> > 
> > 
> > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Mike Bosworth" 
<mike.bosworth@xxxx> 
> > wrote:
> > > Hi Steve
> > > 
> > > Its a Bosch 0280 130 214    ( DMC Part 102125 )As you prob 
know 
> > this 
> > > part is only supposed to operate the cold start injector when 
the 
> > > coolant temperature is below 35oC, after 5 mins of running the 
> > switch 
> > > will not be closed due to the higher coolant temperature. BTW 
the 
> > > switch itself is grounded by the threaded part that goes into 
the 
> > > water pump, ie not a good idea to seal it in with PTFE tape as 
> > this 
> > > may cause this not to work correctly. Use a multimeter at cold 
> and 
> > > then again after 5 mins to confirm the correct operation of 
this 
> > > switch and save yourself £20 :)
> > > 
> > > Regards  
> > > 
> > > Mike
> > > #2001
> > > 
> > > 
> > > --- In doc-uk@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "blackaddertoo" 
> > <blackaddertoo@xxxx> 
> > > wrote:
> > > > Hi all
> > > > 
> > > > Please does anyone know the part number for the thermo time 
> > switch?
> > > > 
> > > > i assume volvo (been there today but having trouble finding 
it)
> > > > 
> > > > my car starts from cold (day plus)
> > > > 
> > > > then does not start after 5 mins (jump the cpr/cold start 
valve 
> > > > connectors, then starts ok)
> > > > 
> > > > hence will change the tts switch anyway in case its faulty.
> > > > 
> > > > also does anyone know the cross reference for door seals 
(have 
> > > > emailed Paul Salisbury because ages ago was to be in the DOC 
> mag 
> > > > Pauls parts)
> > > > 
> > > > thanks for any help
> > > > 
> > > > regards
> > > > 
> > > > Steve







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