Re: [DMCForum] difference between fuel senders
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Re: [DMCForum] difference between fuel senders

My money's on the DMH one. It's well made, completely sealed, and the
"problem" of the reed switches has the side effect of the fuel light
coming on properly and not flickering.

My 2p is that the "incremental" nature, though perhaps not ideal, is
definitely good enough for the gauge to do its job - I know getting into
my car how much fuel is in it, and how long I can go for before filling
up. Isn't that what a gauge is meant to do? I would guess that there
aren't more relays because it runs the risk of more than one being
switched at a time, buggering up the reading.

I don't like the Zilla products, because *personally* I think they're
too expensive for what they are. The sender is a modified Saab one with
electronics to make it work - and I've personally seen one where it had
gone wrong. Knowing how the DMCH one works, I find it hard to think of a
way it _can_ physically go wrong, it's just so elegantly simple, which
is reflected in the price.


Walter Coe wrote:

> I'm staying several hundred messages behind, but this seems
> like a nice complicated question to tackle...
> DMCH makes a sender that works half-way decent, especially
> considering the price.  It uses a string of magnetic reed
> switches like JetSki, SeaDoo, Waverunner, etc.  I think the
> biggest problem with the DMCH design is that they don't use
> near enough switches.  This makes the output terribly jumpy
> & incremental.  The gasket isn't very fuel resistant.  After
> they swell up, it helps to trim them back down on a belt
> sander or else the retainer ring won't screw over it.
> So far I like the Zilla one the best, but it requires the
> most modifications to make it work right.  Watch out for
> swelling leaky gaskets.  Try plugging most of the holes with
> epoxy to stop the gauge from fluctuating wildly.  Also watch
> out for rust in these things.  It's best to cover the top
> inside with epoxy when it is new to stop it from rotting
> away too quickly.
> The OEM senders can be made to work half-way reliably, but
> it takes a lot of trial & error to stop the float from
> binding yet still make good electrical contact.  If you have
> more patience than money, this is the way to go.
> Or maybe you can come up with a better design?  I think DMCH
> was on the right track with the reed switches.  They just
> need a couple more of them in there.
> Walt

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