[DMCForum] Re: very frustrated!! - starting problem
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[DMCForum] Re: very frustrated!! - starting problem



Thanks for helping me press on.  I'm pretty determined to figure
this out and if anything it gives people like me the benefit of
learning the system a little at a time.  Never know - it may lead to
being a DeLorean mechanic someday!

Well the battery is currently charging overnight so tomorrow I
should be able to give it a crank.  Before that though I did a few
tests.  It was suggested that I unplug the fuel pump at the plug and
retest the 30/87 jumper.  I inserted the wire and there were no
sparks or heat on the wire.  I guess this would suggest that the
fuel pump is not the fault.  It shouldn't be seeing how it is brand
new and recently installed and tested out fine.

I guess the next step would be to plug evrything in and give it a
crank on a full battery (with and without the relay in place).  If
it doesn't turn over witht he jumper then I should go about the
starter fluid.  I'm a bit confused at this seeing how I never done
that. Where exactly do I 'pump' the fluid in or ge the fluid?  SOrry
if this sounds dumb but I never forced fluid into a vehicle to start
it.

I appreciate the time and energy in this problem!!!

Brian
11280

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Brian,
>
> You're getting there.
>
> You're killing the battery and it needs charged. I don't think you
> have an ignition problem. Even though the voltage reads 11.8,
that's
> not under any load. You've been working with the doors open,
courtesy
> lights on and cranking for a while. It needs a boost. Not to
mention,
> who knows how old your battery is.
>
> Yes, the relay gets warm during normal operation.
>
> I don't advocte using a paperclip. It's pot-metal with poor
> conducting qualities. Get a scrap of wire and crimp some male
spades
> on each end. Yes, sorry: pins 30 AND 87 of the RPM relay socket.
>
> Dude, don't give up. This is a simple problem and I don't want to
> hear that "I-need-a-professional" junk. That's cool if you own a
> Toyota because there's a dealership around every corner. DeLorean
> owners are more resourceful because -good- service like PJ Grady
or
> DMCH is a long way off. The last thing you need is a local grease
> monkey dorking your car up worse than it already is.
>
> You have indeed, likely isolated the RPM relay as the bad
component.
> The pumps don't all make the same sound. I've heard many that are
> more quiet than mine and it's only a year and a half old. If your
> pump is buzzing then that's a good sound.
>
> Next test: Make a -good- jumper out of some 22 or 20 (preferably
20)
> gauge wire and crimp some flat, male spade connectors on it. Get a
> good charge on your battery. Jumper the RPM relay and try to start
> the car. It should run. The Lambda system will be inoperative
because
> you're only jumpering the fuel pump part of the circuit. You can
> drive like this but I don't recommend it.
>
> If the car won't start, give it a shot of starting fluid. If it
> starts, we're still working on a fuel issue. If it doesn't start
> we'll work some more electrical issues.
>
> Rich A.
> #5335
>
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > Thanks,
> >
> > For whatever reason I was able to redo the relay test you
> prescribed
> > earlier and got new results.  I assume 'buzzing' to life means
that
> > I can hear it?  I had the voltmeter hooked to the pump
connectors
> as
> > I did the test.  With the relay in place the pump got no
juice...it
> > went down to 0.0.  with the paperclip in place at 30 and 87 I
got
> > sparks as well as a hot paper clip.  The voltmeter read a
> consistent
> > 7.5 at the pump.  Can I isolate this to the relay then?  Even
so,
> > the pump doesn't actually hum or anything.
> >
> > Another thing I notice is that the car wont even bother to try
and
> > turnover.  I think my battery is going dead or do you think it
> could
> > be the coil?  I can't find the battery charger so I didn't get a
> > chance to charge the battery up yet.
> >
> > Thanks again!!
> >
> >
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Ah, good question. Sorry :)
> > >
> > > At the inertia switch, you need to do a "continuity" check.
The
> > > ground wire from the fuel pump is black/purple, it goes to the
> > > intertia switch. Clip one ohm meter probe to the ground wire
on
> > the
> > > pump, then clip the other one to the black/purple contact on
the
> > > intertia switch plug. If it reads "open" your fuel pump is
> > grounded
> > > elsewhere and you need to find it. It's probably fallen off.
If
> it
> > > reads "short" then the b/p wire is attached to the harness as
it
> > > should be.
> > >
> > > Also, inspect the BLACK wire on the inertia switch plug to
make
> > sure
> > > it's grounded properly. Just touch the one probe to the black
> wire
> > > contact and the other probe to the body or frame somewhere.
> Again,
> > > short=good, open/resistance=bad. If the pump is grounded at
the
> > > switch but the -switch- ain't grounded you'll still have the
> > problem.
> > >
> > > Lastly, (regarding the inertia switch) remove and inspect the
> > black
> > > box. Look at the contacts. Is the plastic melted around them?
The
> > > older style were a point of failure. They were underrated. You
> can
> > > also put your ohm meter on the contacts and pull the plunger
to
> > make
> > > sure it's operating properly. Plunger down= short. Plunger up=
> > open.
> > > This is the correct mode of operation.
> > >
> > > I'm really pushing this grounding issue because you jumpered
your
> > RPM
> > > relay and still only had 00.00 volts (flashing 7v). That
clears
> > the
> > > relay from the problem. BTW, I think your jumper was probably
> fine.
> > >
> > > Oh hell, I just remembered. DeLoreans use the European habit
of
> > > switching grounds on and off, not power. Definitely follow the
> > steps
> > > above, but also jumper the RPM relay again, and measure for
12v
> on
> > > the white/purple wire but do it with a ground OTHER than the
> > ground
> > > wire on the pump. Use the body or frame somewhere.
> > >
> > > If you have no voltage, go back to the inertia switch and
touch
> > > white/purple, and an independent ground again. (Frame/body).
> > >
> > > If you have no voltage THERE, go back to the RPM relay and do
it
> > > again! Unplug the relay and touch W/P and an independent
ground.
> > The
> > > seat belt mounting bolts make a good ground I think. You're
> > tracing
> > > the flow, finding the break in the pipe.
> > >
> > > Electricity is just plumbing. Electrons flow instead of water
and
> > the
> > > pipes are really tiny.
> > >
> > > Post your findings when you can.
> > >
> > > Rich A.
> > > #5335
> > >
> > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > > > > Ok, two or three people have told you where the interia
> switch
> > is.
> > > >
> > > > What exactly am I supposed to check here?  It's pluged in
and
> > it's
> > > a
> > > > black box... :)
> > > <snip!>


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