[DMCForum] Re: very frustrated!! - starting problem
[Date Prev][Date Next][Thread Prev][Thread Next][Date Index][Thread Index]

[DMCForum] Re: very frustrated!! - starting problem



Thanks for helping me press on.  I'm pretty determined to figure
this out and if anything it gives people like me the benefit of
learning the system a little at a time.  Never know - it may lead to
being a DeLorean mechanic someday!

Well the battery is currently charging overnight so tomorrow I
should be able to give it a crank.  Before that though I did a few
tests.  It was suggested that I unplug the fuel pump at the plug and
retest the 30/87 jumper.  I inserted the wire and there were no
sparks or heat on the wire.  I guess this would suggest that the
fuel pump is not the fault.  It shouldn't be seeing how it is brand
new and recently installed and tested out fine.

I guess the next step would be to plug evrything in and give it a
crank on a full battery (with and without the relay in place).  If
it doesn't turn over witht he jumper then I should go about the
starter fluid.  I'm a bit confused at this seeing how I never done
that. Where exactly do I 'pump' the fluid in or ge the fluid?  SOrry
if this sounds dumb but I never forced fluid into a vehicle to start
it.

I appreciate the time and energy in this problem!!!

Brian
11280

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Brian,
>
> You're getting there.
>
> You're killing the battery and it needs charged. I don't think you
> have an ignition problem. Even though the voltage reads 11.8,
that's
> not under any load. You've been working with the doors open,
courtesy
> lights on and cranking for a while. It needs a boost. Not to
mention,
> who knows how old your battery is.
>
> Yes, the relay gets warm during normal operation.
>
> I don't advocte using a paperclip. It's pot-metal with poor
> conducting qualities. Get a scrap of wire and crimp some male
spades
> on each end. Yes, sorry: pins 30 AND 87 of the RPM relay socket.
>
> Dude, don't give up. This is a simple problem and I don't want to
> hear that "I-need-a-professional" junk. That's cool if you own a
> Toyota because there's a dealership around every corner. DeLorean
> owners are more resourceful because -good- service like PJ Grady
or
> DMCH is a long way off. The last thing you need is a local grease
> monkey dorking your car up worse than it already is.
>
> You have indeed, likely isolated the RPM relay as the bad
component.
> The pumps don't all make the same sound. I've heard many that are
> more quiet than mine and it's only a year and a half old. If your
> pump is buzzing then that's a good sound.
>
> Next test: Make a -good- jumper out of some 22 or 20 (preferably
20)
> gauge wire and crimp some flat, male spade connectors on it. Get a
> good charge on your battery. Jumper the RPM relay and try to start
> the car. It should run. The Lambda system will be inoperative
because
> you're only jumpering the fuel pump part of the circuit. You can
> drive like this but I don't recommend it.
>
> If the car won't start, give it a shot of starting fluid. If it
> starts, we're still working on a fuel issue. If it doesn't start
> we'll work some more electrical issues.
>
> Rich A.
> #5335
>
> --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > Thanks,
> >
> > For whatever reason I was able to redo the relay test you
> prescribed
> > earlier and got new results.  I assume 'buzzing' to life means
that
> > I can hear it?  I had the voltmeter hooked to the pump
connectors
> as
> > I did the test.  With the relay in place the pump got no
juice...it
> > went down to 0.0.  with the paperclip in place at 30 and 87 I
got
> > sparks as well as a hot paper clip.  The voltmeter read a
> consistent
> > 7.5 at the pump.  Can I isolate this to the relay then?  Even
so,
> > the pump doesn't actually hum or anything.
> >
> > Another thing I notice is that the car wont even bother to try
and
> > turnover.  I think my battery is going dead or do you think it
> could
> > be the coil?  I can't find the battery charger so I didn't get a
> > chance to charge the battery up yet.
> >
> > Thanks again!!
> >
> >
> > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> > > Ah, good question. Sorry :)
> > >
> > > At the inertia switch, you need to do a "continuity" check.
The
> > > ground wire from the fuel pump is black/purple, it goes to the
> > > intertia switch. Clip one ohm meter probe to the ground wire
on
> > the
> > > pump, then clip the other one to the black/purple contact on
the
> > > intertia switch plug. If it reads "open" your fuel pump is
> > grounded
> > > elsewhere and you need to find it. It's probably fallen off.
If
> it
> > > reads "short" then the b/p wire is attached to the harness as
it
> > > should be.
> > >
> > > Also, inspect the BLACK wire on the inertia switch plug to
make
> > sure
> > > it's grounded properly. Just touch the one probe to the black
> wire
> > > contact and the other probe to the body or frame somewhere.
> Again,
> > > short=good, open/resistance=bad. If the pump is grounded at
the
> > > switch but the -switch- ain't grounded you'll still have the
> > problem.
> > >
> > > Lastly, (regarding the inertia switch) remove and inspect the
> > black
> > > box. Look at the contacts. Is the plastic melted around them?
The
> > > older style were a point of failure. They were underrated. You
> can
> > > also put your ohm meter on the contacts and pull the plunger
to
> > make
> > > sure it's operating properly. Plunger down= short. Plunger up=
> > open.
> > > This is the correct mode of operation.
> > >
> > > I'm really pushing this grounding issue because you jumpered
your
> > RPM
> > > relay and still only had 00.00 volts (flashing 7v). That
clears
> > the
> > > relay from the problem. BTW, I think your jumper was probably
> fine.
> > >
> > > Oh hell, I just remembered. DeLoreans use the European habit
of
> > > switching grounds on and off, not power. Definitely follow the
> > steps
> > > above, but also jumper the RPM relay again, and measure for
12v
> on
> > > the white/purple wire but do it with a ground OTHER than the
> > ground
> > > wire on the pump. Use the body or frame somewhere.
> > >
> > > If you have no voltage, go back to the inertia switch and
touch
> > > white/purple, and an independent ground again. (Frame/body).
> > >
> > > If you have no voltage THERE, go back to the RPM relay and do
it
> > > again! Unplug the relay and touch W/P and an independent
ground.
> > The
> > > seat belt mounting bolts make a good ground I think. You're
> > tracing
> > > the flow, finding the break in the pipe.
> > >
> > > Electricity is just plumbing. Electrons flow instead of water
and
> > the
> > > pipes are really tiny.
> > >
> > > Post your findings when you can.
> > >
> > > Rich A.
> > > #5335
> > >
> > > --- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Brian" <TK581@xxxx> wrote:
> > > > > Ok, two or three people have told you where the interia
> switch
> > is.
> > > >
> > > > What exactly am I supposed to check here?  It's pluged in
and
> > it's
> > > a
> > > > black box... :)
> > > <snip!>


Yahoo! Groups Sponsor
ADVERTISEMENT
click here


Yahoo! Groups Links



Home Back to the Home of PROJECT VIXEN


Copyright 2006 ProjectVixen.com.  All rights reserved.

Opinions expressed in posts reflect the views of their respective authors.
DMCForum Mailing List Archive  DMCNews Mailing List Archive  DMC-UK Mailing List Archive