[DMCForum] Re: Headlight switch
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[DMCForum] Re: Headlight switch

What you say rings true. I hear the relays click in behind me when I
turn the lights on. I don't doubt what you're saying but how do the
contacts in a sealed relay get dirty?

The headlight switch isn't sealed. Although it doesn't power the
lights, wouldn't that kind of crud -anywhere- in the circuit cause a
heat build up at the weakest point?

Also, if what you say is true, do you recommend that I replace my
relays? I don't know how old they are.


Rich A.

--- In DMCForum@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, Martin Gutkowski <webmaster@xxxx>
> A common myth is that the headlight switch powers the lights - it
> doesn't. The switch powers a pair of relays, one for sidelights,
one for
> headlights. The fuse is entirely seperate, electrically, from the
> switch. The only thing that will directly affect the operation of
> switch, is the cleanliness of the contacts inside it. Heat is
> where connections are dirty, so if the connections on the relays
> dirty, the relays, and their bases will get warm, not the switch.
> We've found identical switches over here, but with different
> buttons. Not common though.
> Martin
> cruznmd wrote:
> >Ok, I've fixed my headlight switch. (I was going to call Bill and
> >a "hazard transplant" but it wasn't necessary. Yes, the switch is
> >poor design. Here's what happened:
> >
> >As we all know (or should know) the fuses and fuse block contacts
> >should be cleaned about once per year (another example of
> >not normally done on other vehicles). The blades on my fuses and
> >fuse block contacts were -BLACK-. Some of the plastic fuse bodies
> >were bloated from heat.
> >
> >Also, an area that no one thinks of: The sliding brass contacts in
> >the headlight switch were green/brown with tarnish or corrosion.
> >of this corrosion causes impedence in the circuit which leads to a
> >build-up of heat that melted the plastic slide rails in the switch
> >the sliding brass contacts "freezing" it in the "on" position. Not
> >mention that some people feel a heavier gauge of wire should have
> >been used in production anyway.
> >
> >I used a dremel tool to carefully grind away the melted plastic
> >some fine, needle-nose pliers to carefully re-bend the brass
> >contact.
> >
> >The switch is "Torrix" brand if anyone wants to try to cross-ref
> >that.
> >
> >If you drive your car a lot, replace or clean your fuses annually.
> >Use some emery paper and clean the fuse block contacts. This will
> >help save your wiring and switches.
> >
> >Rich A.
> >#5335
> >
> > 
> >

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