Re: [DMCForum] Headlight switch
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Re: [DMCForum] Headlight switch

A common myth is that the headlight switch powers the lights - it
doesn't. The switch powers a pair of relays, one for sidelights, one for
headlights. The fuse is entirely seperate, electrically, from the
switch. The only thing that will directly affect the operation of the
switch, is the cleanliness of the contacts inside it. Heat is generated
where connections are dirty, so if the connections on the relays are
dirty, the relays, and their bases will get warm, not the switch.

We've found identical switches over here, but with different (square)
buttons. Not common though.


cruznmd wrote:

>Ok, I've fixed my headlight switch. (I was going to call Bill and do
>a "hazard transplant" but it wasn't necessary. Yes, the switch is a
>poor design. Here's what happened:
>As we all know (or should know) the fuses and fuse block contacts
>should be cleaned about once per year (another example of maintenance
>not normally done on other vehicles). The blades on my fuses and the
>fuse block contacts were -BLACK-. Some of the plastic fuse bodies
>were bloated from heat.
>Also, an area that no one thinks of: The sliding brass contacts in
>the headlight switch were green/brown with tarnish or corrosion. All
>of this corrosion causes impedence in the circuit which leads to a
>build-up of heat that melted the plastic slide rails in the switch to
>the sliding brass contacts "freezing" it in the "on" position. Not to
>mention that some people feel a heavier gauge of wire should have
>been used in production anyway.
>I used a dremel tool to carefully grind away the melted plastic and
>some fine, needle-nose pliers to carefully re-bend the brass sliding
>The switch is "Torrix" brand if anyone wants to try to cross-ref by
>If you drive your car a lot, replace or clean your fuses annually.
>Use some emery paper and clean the fuse block contacts. This will
>help save your wiring and switches.
>Rich A.


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