Re: [DMCForum] A/C Compressor rebuild?
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Re: [DMCForum] A/C Compressor rebuild?



Erik,

> Is it possible to rebuild the A/C Compressor?

I had a bad experience having a compressor rebuilt.  For the trouble it is
worth a few extra bucks to buy a new one from a DeLorean vendor.  I paid
around $200 for a local wholesale rebuilder to do mine.  The alternatives
were a new one from PJ Grady for around $250 and a local import specialty
shop had about the same price as Grady.  But I wasn't sure if the local
one
would have the correct head.

I started with a compressor that had been sitting in the weather for about
4
years on a junk chassis that had the body removed by the previous owner.
The rebuild shop (Chilly Bear in St. Pete, FL) tested it on their bench
and
said it was okay except the bearings & seals needed replacing.  They did a
"standard rebuild" and also replaced the clutch for free.  It was broken &
welded at by the previous owner.  It wasn't visible, though, until they
took
it apart.

In the course of the rebuild, they never touched the oil filler port (the
big bolt on the top).  I unscrewed it to find that it was stripped out and
had a black o-ring (not necessarily R-134a compatible).  The oil they put
in
the compressor looked nasty (green).  I took it back.  They fiddled with
it
for a while and then gave me a different compressor but swapped heads.
The
oil they put in this compressor was a different color (brown) and looked
just as nasty as the previous stuff.  I flushed it all out and used my own
oil (clear) Ester oil.

Chilly Bear is a huge rebuild wholesaler who sells to PepBoys (that's how
I
found them) and several other chains.  Considering the lack of quality of
the work, I would never trust a rebuilt compressor from that outfit again
or
any rebuilt part from any auto parts chain.  Who I would trust for a
rebuild, though, is Classic Auto A/C Manufacturing in Tampa.  They are the
only a/c outfit that advertises in Hemmings, and they are the ones making
the reproduction evaporators for DMCH.  They also rebuild accumulators.

Rob Grady told me that the compressor's head is unique to the DeLorean.
If
you buy a new compressor from just any place, I wouldn't expect the head
to
be the same.  If it is, please let me know so I can discuss it in a future
technical article.

I would also like to know what the proper torque spec is for the head
bolts.
I'm guessing around 20 ft-lbs.  The guy at Chilly Bear just snugged them
by
feel.  Considering that it needs to hold back 2.2 lbs of "gold vapor"
R-12,
I wasn't impressed.

When you put the compressor back on, make sure it has 8 ounces of your
favorite refrigerant oil.  It is fine to dump it all in the compressor,
but
some people like to put some of it elsewhere in the system.  I posted on
the
DML a while back trying to figure out what the proper amount of oil is
supposed to be, and no one came up with an answer.  I did my own research
(read the Haynes a/c repair textbook (which I recommend)) and compared
with
advice from Al (the owner of Classic Auto A/C) came up with
"approximately"
8 ounces, probably no less, but a little extra won't hurt.  I since bought
a
complete label kit from DMCH that has a replacement sticker for the
compressor.  It says to use 1.8 cubic inches, but no one uses those units.
I don't have the patience right now to do the math to see what this is
equivalent to.  If you figure it out, let me know.  It turns out to be
less
than 8, I would still use at least 8.

The charging procedure I use is a follows IF you have the equipment:
Charge
the system with dry nitrogen to around 40 psi and turn the compressor by
hand a dozen times.  This helps to seat the new seal.  If you skip this
procedure then you may not pull or keep a good vacuum.  Instead of
nitrogen,
you can use refrigerant but there are issues with recovery &
contamination.
Pull a hard vacuum for about an hour.  Mechanics who are in a hurry will
do
much less or not even bother, but you should pull a good vacuum.  Hooking
it
to the vacuum of a running engine is bullshit.  That only makes around
18inHg and you need at least 28 (varies with your altitude).

I could go on for a few more pages, but this should get you started.

Walt
P.S. I'll get back with you soon on those parts I need.


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