Re: [DML] Melted Transmission Harness

["Jeff Angwin" <jangwin@xxxxxxxxx>]

Hi VB:

Do you know which of the 3 cables in the harness are melted?

If it is only the one that routes to the white plastic transducer box
that mounts to the side of the transmission then you don't have to
replace the whole assy.

Simply cut the cable off at the transducer box leaving about 2 inches
of free cable coming out of the box. Then remove the two circuit
boards from the box, and mount them in a plastic "project box" that
will then be mounted in the engine compartment. When you move the
electronics to the engine compartment, you only need about a foot of
the cable that previously routed to the transmission. You get to cut
away and toss the melted part of the cable that routed alongside the
exhaust

You then need to wire a new cable from the three transducer
connections inside the transducer box to the AT governor boards that
are now in the engine compartment. I used CAT-5 for mine, using two of
the twisted pairs in the CAT-5 cable. In the transducer box, they
connect to the three lugs that previously had bare 3/8" wires
connected to the governor circuit board. The middle connector is
ground, so connect two of the twisted pair wires to that one (one from
each pair) and the other two wires of the pairs to each of the other
connectors.

After I cut the wires inside the transducer box that connected to the
AT governor boards to the cable, right where they solder to the
boards, I simply pulled the individual wires out of the cable sheath.
I then passed the CAT-5 through the empty sheath, and filled it with
RTV silicon. Instant strain relief for the CAT-5 as it enters the
transducer box.

I attached a male 12-pin Molex connector to the AT governor circuit in
the project box, and a matching female connector to my now short cable
coming from the AT connector block. This way I can easily remove the
AT circuit from the car for debugging, troubleshooting etc, and who
knows, if a computerized AT controller ever becomes available, it will
be a simple plug & play upgrade to do!

Also, be sure you fit a heatsink to the two power transistors on the
governor board.

------

If you can do this, and decide to, feel free to contact me if you need
more explanation or help. For instance, I've documented which color
wires from the cable connect to which pads on the circuit boards, etc.
so you don't have to document it as you remove it if you don't want
to.

Also, the other two cable that route to the transmission are pretty
simple to patch, as they only contain a few wires in each. One of the
cables connects to the solenoids that actually do the shifting (3 or 4
wires) - based on your problem, this cable is suspect... The other
cable is wired to switches that sense which gear you are in. One of
the wires connects to the reverse tail lamps, and the other senses
when you are in Neutral or Park. So if your reverse lamps work and if
can start the car in Park or Neutral, then that cable is OK.


Regards,

---Jeff---


Jeff Angwin
VIN 3034




On Tue, Jul 29, 2008 at 12:26 AM, Robert Moseley <videobob@xxxxxxxxxxx> wrote:
> I have had trouble with my auto transmission for years now,
> I had to rig it up with a toggle switch to go from 1st to 3rd gear
> by turning the computer on and off.
> It finally stopped working and got stuck into 3rd.
> Reverse seems to work fine.
> I finally put the car up on ramps to have a look at this
> "computer" and how to remove it and I began to trace the
> harness and I was shocked to find that it had been resting
> on the exhaust and was melted and rusted together!!!
> I don't know for sure if there is even anything wrong with
> the computer or if it was just this harness.
> I need to get the entire computer and harness replaced.
>
> Does anyone have one of these for sale?
> Thanks.
> - VB
> VIN#5278
>
> _

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