[DML] Re: stiff clutch???
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[DML] Re: stiff clutch???

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Dave Swingle" <swingle_dmc@...> wrote:
> Recall that the brake and clutch system on the D (like most other 
> Euro cars) has a simple breather hole in the filler cap. There is no 
> rubber gasket that collapes into the tank as the level goes down as 
> is common on American/Asian cars. So more water gets in than you may 
> be used to.

And that's a good thing. Of the two 5-speed Fords that I have owned in
my life that have that rubber gasket/cup in the master cylinder
reservoir (2 separate models), they have ALL vapor-locked the
hydraulics on my clutches, and left me stuck in traffic. Both times I
got out, pulled that little rubber piece out of the reservoir, and my
clutch was once again as tight as the day that it left the factory. So
I'm glad I don't have that problem with the D. What you also have to
factor in is that some times they'll install those gaskets because
routine bleeding on those types of vehicles isn't always an option.
Not just because of owner apathy, but because in some cases they
actually mount the Slave Cylinder INSIDE of the Bellhousing! The
DeLorean may not be in the most convenient of locations, but at least
one can in fact access it with a minimal amount of work, versus
dropping the entire transmission.

Dave is absolutely correct. Change the fluid every 2 years as the
factory recommended. It's not because your fluids will suddenly go bad
and you'll have no brakes or clutch. What it will do is keep you car's
hydraulic system up to par. The rubber components inside are crucial
and sensitive to old fluid.

Take my car for example: I did about 10K miles after replacing the
plastic clutch line with a SS Braided one. About 10K miles later, the
clutch went out. New clutch installed, it lasted about 2,500 miles,
and died too because the rubber started to rot inside of the master
and slave cylinders, and I couldn't get proper line pressure to
disengage the pressure plate from the clutch disc. Replaced clutch AND
the remaining hydraulic components, car was fine ever since. Now, had
the fluid have been changed over the years at the recommended
intervals, their wouldn't have been a problem with replacing a single
component. But when old fluid mixed with new, the rotting of the
rubber was accelerated, and led to a failure.

Same problem with the brakes before the car went into storage.
Replaced the Master Cylinder and installed SS braided brake hoses.
Brakes rapidly became softer and softer after each replacement, even
though the pads were OK. No leaking at the time, but they'll need a
complete rebuilding before I'll ever let the car see any road again.

So make sure you replace that fluid when you're supposed to do so. No,
it may not affect you too much in the short term if you drive gently
(otherwise you get to experience boiling brake fluid like me too), but
when it does come down to replacing a single failed component in the
hydraulic systems, you'll end up with a domino effect where you're
gonna need to replace EVERYTHING! And THAT is one of those costly
repairs that can take your car out of service for a long time.

vin 6585 "X"

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