RE: [DML] Re: AC compressor rework
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RE: [DML] Re: AC compressor rework

Ahh yes - I did mean a stock orifice tube, not expansion or VOV.


I am also taking your advice on the compressor,  it ain't broke so...
Thanks for the kick to the forehead there.


I do have the tools (not the compressor ones, but that is moot)
including a proper vacuum pump, manifold, gauges, etc. 


I've purchased a small stash of R12 (I have the IMACA license) and will
attempt to "donate' the Freeze12 properly when I initially evacuate the
system, but I know it has a blend of old R12 and freeze12 in there right
now so I'm not optimistic that I'll find any takers there, no one wants
cross contaminated gasses.  I'll likely get an old spare tank, vacuum it
down and pump the gas into it and save it till the next hazardous waste
turn in day.


My intention for flushing was dual fold though,  certainly there may be
contamination, but also I have no real idea how much oil is really in
the system today,  much less how much more I will need to add when I
replace one hose, a hub and the accumulator,  so I thought I'd punt -
flush and refill.  What's your advice there?




From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of David Teitelbaum
Sent: Friday, June 15, 2007 6:54 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: AC compressor rework


I understand your plan better now but I disagree with some of it. I
agree that you should replace the condenser hose. Once you remove it
you will be able to tell how contaminated your system is. I also agree
that you should replace the accumulator. Your system does not have an
expansion valve. It uses an "Orifice Tube" unless it has been modified
from stock. If the system is contaminated you should replace it. I
still disagree with replacing the compressor. The oil should be
removed and replaced but if it is working (and you say it is) and not
making bad noises, it is probably fine. If you are staying with R-12
you probably do not need to change any of the other hoses. Pressure
test the system and when you refill add leak dye. If you really want
to get the most out of the system use coil cleaner on the evap and
cond coil on the outside fins and tubing. It is taking a big chance
using parts tht are not "right" for the car. Just because a compressor
may look like it is correct on the outside, inside it can be very
different. At least the compressor that is on the car now is correct.
You say it is working so if the only reason you are changing it is
because you can get another one cheap, but has to be modified, I fail
to see the logic.
If you do not have the proper tools, a vacuum pump, gauges, tools,
etc, you should not be messing with the refrigerent. Do the mechanical
work and then take it to a shop for the testing, vacuuming, and
charging. A proper vacuum pump that can get into the micron range is
expensive but you cannot do good work without it. An A/C system should
only be "flushed" if it is contaminated. Usually done with R-11 or
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757

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