RE: [DML] Re: AC compressor rework
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RE: [DML] Re: AC compressor rework

Thanks David and all.


I got my A/C working after the car sat basically abandoned for 12 years.
I've been running freeze12 in my car for the last year or so, but it has
a slow leak.  I've found that my condenser hose has been spliced, cut, a
short piece of rigid pipe installed and two hose clamps to reseal it.  I
can tell from UV dye that I'm leaking a little there, and I may also be
losing some through the hoses themselves as it turns out freeze12 is
mostly 134a blended with smaller amounts of other gasses.  I understand
that 134a will slowly weep out through the older, non barrier type hoses
as well.  Given the fact that some of the gasses may weep, but not all,
I realize that any time I add another can of freeze12 (twice a year it
looks like) I'm possibly changing the blend of gasses, their expansion
rates, properities, etc. plus I'm just plain leaking a little.  Overall
it's not an acceptable situation.


I plan to replace the defective hose, HP hub, my expansion valve and my
accumulator in coming weeks, and while I was at it I've considered going
ahead and swapping the compressor as I had a lead on a new one for about
$40 (one time deal guys, sorry), a fantastic deal made somewhat less
attractive by the unit having the wrong pulley and back.  Right now my
unit works fine, but if I'm going to vacuum and refill it, this time
with my stash of R12,  a fresh compressor wouldn't hurt, especially for
$40 and some labor.


I'm optimistic that with the known leak repaired and a switch back to
good old R12 I'll have chilly air for many years to come.


So then a new question for those die-hards who haven't given up on this
message already,  do any of the major chains etc loan out AC flush kits?
Should I just buy a kit off ebay?




From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On Behalf
Of David Teitelbaum
Sent: Thursday, June 14, 2007 6:58 AM
To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
Subject: [DML] Re: AC compressor rework


The Sanden compressors are pretty bulletproof. Unless your system
is/was heavily contaminated you really shouldn't need to replace it.
Drain all of the old oil out of it and refill with fresh, replace the
service valves, check the gap and the current draw on the clutch,
replace the belt and the idler pulleys and it should be OK. Usually
more likely you will need to replace the hose to the condensor coil,
the accumulator/dryer, and the orifice tube than the compressor. If it
is making loud knocking noises or it has hard spots when turning it
then it is usually time to go looking for a new compressor! A good
deal on the wrong part is not deal! Removing the pulley and clutch
requires special tools. Refer to the Workshop Manual. BTW, why are you
"cracking" open your system? A/C systems are usually best left
untouched if they are working. If you do have to work on them it is
generally best to do the least you have to as long as the system is
not contaminated. Replace any seals, gaskets, "O" rings on any
connections you "crack" open.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757 

-- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx <> , "Tom
Tait" <TTait@...> wrote:
> I'm about to crack open my AC system and replace a number of
> The compressor is ok right now, but... I think I may be able to get a
> very good deal on a Sanden 510 compressor, brand new. The problems are
> that it has the wrong back on it and the wrong pulley (currently
> serpentine).
> I know I can purchase a GM back reasonably, or move my old one over.
> this a terribly difficult thing to get right? Do I reuse the new seals
> or replace them?
> How about replacing the pulley? Can I swap just the pulley and keep
> using the new clutch? Do I need special tools, etc?
> Advice appreciated.
> Tom
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]


[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]

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