[DML] Re: Tail Lights
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[DML] Re: Tail Lights

Quick and dirty way to repair the board, here is what I would do:

1.  Go to mouser electronics or digikey.  
2.  Purchase a circuit board repair pen.  This is usually under PCB
design/repair products section.
3.  Clean / degrease the flaky area of the circuit board.  Wash with
water and let it dry.  
4.  Use the circuit board repair pen like a permanent marker and
repair the traces.

The ink in circuit board repair pen is electrically conductive.  It's
not as good as a brand new board, but it works and will get you up and
running in no time.  Costs about 30 bucks for the pen.  No soldering


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@...> wrote:
> The rivets and bulb contacts are steel, the traces on the boards are
> copper. You're right, it is not easy to solder them together. Most of
> the time I see the solder just "blobbed" on, not really making
> electrical contact. My theory is the point where the rivets and
> contacts touch the copper oxidizes creating the bad contact point.
> Squeezing the rivet helps to break through that oxidation. That's why
> I like to use the tiny screws to make a tight connection and then
> solder. Your idea of spraying laquer over it to seal it is not bad as
> long as you can keep the stuff off of the points the bulbs must touch
> and the plug. Too much heat and you lift the copper traces right off
> the board! Scotch-Brite will clean things up without taking off the
> silver. Make sure you have the right type of bulb in each spot. A
> dreaded PO could have stuck a wrong type in the wrong spot. Also be
> very careful about the double-filiment bulbs. One pin is lower than
> the other to get the correct filiment in the right spot. You can force
> it the wrong way and then you have the wrong filiment in the wrong
> spot! Best insurance is to jut stick all new bulbs in. That way you
> know they are good, clean, and the right ones!
> David Teitelbaum
> vin 10757
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@> wrote:
> >
> > Geoff, 
> > The brads that hold the contacts to the board are 2 different kinds
> of metal
> > as well as the brad it self. It takes a special way to solder the 3 
> > dis-similar metals, so if you try it don't hold the heat to long
on the
> > brad or the trace on the board will turn loose. I practiced on several
> > boards till I got it right and it is worked out good so be careful.
> > On the contacts, don't sand except with something like a 400 grit
> > strip. Contacts have a small amount of silver on them to help
> prevent rust
> > and to enhance the contact connection. If you sand them you will
> take off
> > all the silver.
> > John Hervey
> >

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