[DML] Re: Tail Lights
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[DML] Re: Tail Lights



The rivets and bulb contacts are steel, the traces on the boards are
copper. You're right, it is not easy to solder them together. Most of
the time I see the solder just "blobbed" on, not really making
electrical contact. My theory is the point where the rivets and
contacts touch the copper oxidizes creating the bad contact point.
Squeezing the rivet helps to break through that oxidation. That's why
I like to use the tiny screws to make a tight connection and then
solder. Your idea of spraying laquer over it to seal it is not bad as
long as you can keep the stuff off of the points the bulbs must touch
and the plug. Too much heat and you lift the copper traces right off
the board! Scotch-Brite will clean things up without taking off the
silver. Make sure you have the right type of bulb in each spot. A
dreaded PO could have stuck a wrong type in the wrong spot. Also be
very careful about the double-filiment bulbs. One pin is lower than
the other to get the correct filiment in the right spot. You can force
it the wrong way and then you have the wrong filiment in the wrong
spot! Best insurance is to jut stick all new bulbs in. That way you
know they are good, clean, and the right ones!
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757



--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "John Hervey" <john@...> wrote:
>
> Geoff, 
> The brads that hold the contacts to the board are 2 different kinds
of metal
> as well as the brad it self. It takes a special way to solder the 3 
> dis-similar metals, so if you try it don't hold the heat to long on the
> brad or the trace on the board will turn loose. I practiced on several
> boards till I got it right and it is worked out good so be careful.
> On the contacts, don't sand except with something like a 400 grit emery
> strip. Contacts have a small amount of silver on them to help
prevent rust
> and to enhance the contact connection. If you sand them you will
take off
> all the silver.
> John Hervey
> 



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