Re: [DML] Cap and Rotor removal/Instrument cluster power problems
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Re: [DML] Cap and Rotor removal/Instrument cluster power problems



Shane,

As far as the the cap and rotor go, what I'll usually do is disconnect
just the fuel mixture unit (the rig between the two intake rails) and
move it forward.  You won't have to remove any fuel lines or remove the
entire intake, just remove the 4 bolts the hold the "W" pipe onto the
intake and the two bolts that hold the brackets for the mixture unit to
the intake and slide it all forward a bit, should give you enough room
to work in.  You might have some problems with the brass tube for the
idle speed stabilizer, worst case you have to slide it out to get it out
of the way.  Just be sure when you put it back in it has the O-ring in
place with the brass ring tapped in place to hold it there.  It's also
easy to push the O-ring out, so put a grease on the tube before sliding
it back in.

Bottom line, this is a pain on the DeLorean no matter how you do it,
unfortunately.

Todd Nelson
1561, Vermont
http://www.rit.edu/~tan5732


shane clarke wrote:
> Hey team!
>   So, I've owned my DeLorean for five years now and every time I have to do a tune up I am able to do everything myself accept replace the cap and rotor because of it's location.  Can ANYONE please give me a secret to getting to that elusive distributor without killing myself?
>    
>   Also, back when I bought the car my cluster lights and guages all worked properly accept for the temp guage.  So, I got a new guage and replaced it, all was well, but while I had the cluster out I noticed that someone had soldered a jump wire from the temp guage to the passenger side of the printed circuit board.  I replaced the circuit board and the whole passenger side of the cluster doesn't work.  Any ideas on how I can get the wiring redone or possibly run a jump wire on a more consistent and powerful lead?  
>    
>   Thanks,
>   Shane Clarke, CAPT, USAF
>   Space and Missile Warning Officer
>   #1991



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