Re: [DML] Re: Not passing emissions
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Re: [DML] Re: Not passing emissions

Did you adjust that screw ?

If yes and ist still sometime stays at the higher idle,
it could be the same problem that I had lately.
The shaft of the butterflys turns very smoothly - as long as
the engine is off and no vacuum / air pressure pushing it.
But as soon as the engine was running, the shaft didn't fully  
return to the idle position. I guess the bearings of the shaft
are worn out a bit.

I could solve the problem (at least for a certain time) by
readjusting/bending the spring on that arm - so the spring pulls it 
a bit stronger in the idle position. 
If works for now and maybe fo thr next few years, but I am 
sure somewhen in the future I have to replace that butterfly 
assembly. I bet there are many cars out there which have the 
same problem as high idle is very common....

Elvis & 6548

> So far I passed all of that,
>      However, I have a high idle situation that I didn't think was
> relevant and now, well, I am grasping at straws.  If I push the switch
> with a screw driver it will return to below 800, but when I let off it
> rises to about 1150.  I've tried adjusting the screw on the arm
> attached by a shaft to the throttle spool that pushes that switch but
> it just does not see to go far enough to actuate the switch.  There is
> a small amount of play on that arm, too.  Could the switch be bad and
> too hard for the screw to push?  Is something out of adjustment?
> Thanks,
> Matt
> VIN 16816 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "David Teitelbaum" <jtrealty@...> wrote:
> >
> > Make sure the timing is set right, and the vacuum advance is hooked up
> > correctly and working. On the Island setup there is no mechanical
> > advance. Check for vacuum leaks. You may have to adjust the mixture
> > but do not do it to compensate for vacuum leaks. They have to be fixed
> > first. Pull the output pipes from the turbos to the intake manifold
> > and if the insides are oily you have to have the leaky turbo rebuilt.
> > You may need to replace the silicone hoses and clamps on the Island
> > turbo plumbing. They MUST not leak. Check the control hoses too. Any
> > leaks will allow you to overboost. Pull the oil fill and you should
> > not see any pressure coming out. You can hold a piece of paper over
> > the opening to determine if air is coming out of the crankcase. You
> > should be running synthetic oil on a turbo car.
> > David Teitelbaum
> > vin 10757
> > 
> > 
> > --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "M. P. Olans" <mpolans@> wrote:
> > >
> > > OK,
> > >      This is frustrating.  Two years ago I had to do a full tune-up to
> > > pass emissions.  This year, same thing.  However, even after the
> > > tuneup, my CO is still too high.  NOx and HC's are really low so I
> > > know the O2 sensor and cats are doing their job.  However, I am at a
> > > loss here.  I did plugs, wires, cap, and rotor.  Gapped them to .025
> > > since the manual said .024-.028 IIRC.  Car runs great and has power
> > > just like before.  It is an Island Twin Turbo.  So, any hints?  I'm
> > > running about 25g/mile CO and the limit is 20.  When I got it from Rob
> > > it tested at 11 g/mile, and then after the first tune-up it was also
> > > 11 g/mile.  What am I missing?  I cleaned my K&N air filter last
> > > month.  I haven't changed my fuel filter in probably 4 years, but how
> > > could that affect emissions?
> > > 
> > > What am I missing?
> > > 
> > > Thanks,
> > > Matt
> > > The Arizona DeLorean Club
> > >
> > >
> >


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