Re: [DML] Fuse 7 - Engine Control - MELTED
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Re: [DML] Fuse 7 - Engine Control - MELTED



dmcerik wrote:
> I've seen this before on other Deloreans.  And the PO of my car had it 
> melt on the fuse box.  To repair it he spliced some new line and an 
> inline fuse.  This has been working great since I've owned the car (7 
> years).  Today my car died while driving.  Fuse 7 not only blew, but 
> totally melted.  Does anyone know why this happens?  I keep my fuses 
> clean, but I have to be honest, I haven't cleaned this one in a few 
> years.
> Any ideas would be appreciated.
> 
> Erik
> 04512
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The blades of those 'hard candy' fuses are aluminum.  They will develop 
an oxide coating fairly quickly.  Normally, this is good because the 
coating protects the rest of the piece from deterioration, which iron 
oxide does not.  When aluminum is used in electical applications, this 
causes a problem because aluminum oxide does not conduct nearly as well 
as metallic aluminum itself.  The oxide causes resistance at the 
connection.  Resistance equals heat.  We see, then, the phenomenon of a 
fuse position melting apart with the fuse still intact.  The remedy is 
to clean, or better, change the fuses regularly.  The fuel pump runs 
through fuse #7.  This means very high current in this circuit all the 
time the engine is running.  As the fuse blades oxidize, the resistance, 
and therefore the heat increases.  Soon enough, what ever holds the 
fuse, well-fuses.
If you want to replace the fuse holder, you should be able to get one at 
a good parts house, NAPA say.  If you want to replace the fuse box, we 
have new ones, with cover for $89.95.
Warren at DMC










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