Re: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything

["seanhagan" <seanhagan@xxxxxxxxx>]

Just wanted to double check, the 3mm allen slot is (as you are 
looking at the distributor from the back of the car) the lower right 
hand side correct? 

How much do I want to turn it?

Which way does what?

Sean
--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, <rob@...> wrote:
>
> Sean,
> 
>  
> 
> Definitely?.you need to have the emissions set up using a gas 
analyzer
> and/or an analog dwell meter. The procedure is in the Workshop 
Manual
> (Section D:04:01). Since it's running you can try adjusting the 
3mm Allen
> screw by "ear" to stabilize the idle until you can get it properly 
set up.
> 
>  
> 
> Thanks again,
> 
>  
> 
> Rob Grady
> 
>    _____  
> 
> From: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx [mailto:dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx] On 
Behalf Of
> seanhagan
> Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 10:26 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: Re: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
> 
>  
> 
> Rob
> The plunger up versus down (man do i feel dumb there!) fixed the 
no-
> start issue. Now that I think of it, i mucked with the fuel cut-
off 
> switch when I went out of state recently... 
> 
> The car started up great!
> 
> Love the look of the stainless lines running under there, and the 
> car when moving sounds like a new car...
> 
> Question on the idle though... i seem to be watching the rpm 
needle 
> bounce between 500 and 1500.. If I feather the gas, i can get her 
to 
> rest at 1000... Someone in AZ-D mentioned today that he thought 
that 
> this is caused by the Lambda unit? 
> 
> Could it be that CO screw is out of adjustment?
> 
> Sean
> 
> -Rob - it was definitely a pleasure doing business with you. 
> 
> --- In HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews@...,
> <rob@> wrote:
> >
> > Sean,
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Many of the parts you mentioned came from us so a warm thank you 
> is in order
> > for your support. Although we're busy prepping for the show feel 
> free to
> > contact us for tech support when needed. First the plunger must 
> be down to
> > ground, and operate, the fuel pump. Next confirm the fuel pump 
is 
> operating
> > when cranking the engine before you proceed. Next you should 
> unclip one
> > injector from the head and perch it over a metal or plastic 
> container. Have
> > some one crank the motor and look for a light stream of fuel at 
> the nozzle
> > tip. If none appears turn the CO adj. screw clockwise until a 
> small stream
> > appears. The car will not start if this adjustment is out by 
more 
> than a
> > turn or two and a new distributor almost always needs adjusting 
to 
> make the
> > engine start. Call if you need more info.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Rob Grady,
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > P.J.Grady Inc.
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > _____ 
> > 
> > From: HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews@...
> [mailto:HYPERLINK
> "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews@...] On 
> Behalf Of
> > seanhagan
> > Sent: Saturday, June 10, 2006 4:26 AM
> > To: HYPERLINK "mailto:dmcnews%40yahoogroups.com"dmcnews@...
> > Subject: [DML] Fuel issues - Replaced nearly everything
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > I have posted in the past here, and have gotten some really good 
> > answers. 
> > So here is my issue...
> > 
> > I ordered alot of new fuel parts for my car from one of the 
> vendors.
> > I got all of the lines plugged in, and all of the new fuel 
> > components attached to my car. I replaced the battery, because 
the 
> > old one would not keep a charge, and the car will not start. I 
> have 
> > absolutely no idea why. 
> > 
> > The starter seems to crank, I am not 100% certain about the 
status 
> > of where the plunger needs to be on the fuel cutoff switch (up 
or 
> > down), but i have it pulled up, and I am getting just repeated 
> > cranking...
> > 
> > I unscrewed a line at the top of the fuel distributor, I could 
> hear 
> > air leak out, and gas, but the car would not fire. 
> > 
> > Here is what I have put in new
> > New fuel line from the pump to the hard line.
> > New Accumulator
> > New Fuel Distributor
> > New Fuel filter
> > New Lines the 13 pack... so all the lines coming off the filter 
> into 
> > the engine bay of the car are new and of the stainless braided 
> > variety.
> > New Banjo bolts - all of them new (but one, I broke it, cleaned 
> out 
> > an old one of the same and used it)
> > I Scrubbed out the tank with acetone and let dry.
> > New Warm-up regulator
> > New battery
> > No baffle, for extraneous reasons - me breaking it - I have the 
> > Special T Auto setup. When i previously had it in the tank, it 
> > worked like a charm. That is what I get for having it hold the 
> line 
> > to the bottom of the tank for the syphon.
> > 4 gallons of new gas (bought it today)
> > New fuel pump.
> > New Fuel tank filter screen.
> > New injectors (6 of them)
> > New rubber thingys that attach to the injectors.
> > 
> > Followed the diagram which is present in one of the news sites. 
> > 
> > All is connected very tight... The one I broke, i tightened too 
> > much, and it just twisted itself off at the hole, the hole did 
not 
> > seem to be crushed. Checked others and the holes in the banjo 
> bolts 
> > are not squished.
> > 
> > How much gas do all of the components have/hold?
> > 
> > It cranks and cranks but does not turn over... Thoughts?
> > 
> > Could it be too much air in the system, and if so, would it not 
be 
> > sent back via the return line to the tank? or do i have to wait 
> for 
> > the air to make it out of the injectors. 
> > 
> > Sean
> > -3372
> > AZ-D
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > --
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> > Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> > Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date: 
> 6/7/2006
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > -- 
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> 6/7/2006
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
> >
> 
>  
> 
> 
> --
> No virus found in this incoming message.
> Checked by AVG Free Edition.
> Version: 7.1.394 / Virus Database: 268.8.3/358 - Release Date: 
6/7/2006
> 
> 
> 
> -- 
> No virus found in this outgoing message.
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6/7/2006
>  
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
>










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