RE: [DML] Intake Manifold Bolts
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RE: [DML] Intake Manifold Bolts

I've taken these things apart so many times I can do it with my eyes closed. 
  I used a socket extension about a foot long which gave me great leverage 
and fit in the area.  PB Blaster is a must if the car has not been 
disassembled in many years!!

An open or closed wrench will do fine but in my experience the extension 
worked best.

Now to the fun stuff.

Once the manifold is removed:

Remove the old O-rings and clean the grooves thoroughly.
Replace O-rings and use some of the special O-ring grease to get them to 
stay put in the grooves (dielectric grease works great!)

Now you're looking at the Y-Pipe.  This is a troublesome part if the bolts 
are rusted to hell because well...they break.  Spray the PB Blaster on the 4 
bolts and let sit for a few hours or overnight.  In my opinion the best way 
to remove a bolt that MAY break is to turn it fast so as not to give it time 
to start to twist the head off.  Just put some muscle into it and do it 
quick.  Just like a band-aid, one motion...RIGHT OFF! (To quote Seinfeld.)

Remove the Water Pump by loosening the hose clamps and then doing the same 
above procedure to the three bolts that hold it down.
Replace THOSE bolts with SS Versions and copper washers (if available.)  Use 
anti-seize compound to prevent corrosion on ALL BOLTS that attach cooling 
components.  I would HIGHLY recommend replacing the bolts you take off with 
NOS plated bolts.  They will resist rust ALOT longer than the silver zinc 
plated at the hardware store.

The O-rings under the Y-pipe will surely be flattened.  Remove and clean 
grooves as with intake manifold O-rings.  Use same knd of grease to reapply 
new O-rings (trust me, it works, as I've done this to every car I've 
serviced and the cooling system NEVER leaks and neither does the Manifold 

Now that you're looking at the "valley" clean down deep inside those 
pockets.  This is VERY important!  I use ACETONE to soak in there and 
disolve alot of the gunk but you can use whatever works for you.

When reassembling be sure to replace the metal tube if it's an original 
unless it's in good shape.  I know I've seen a SS version of the pipe 
floating around and I actually decided to use a section of heater hose with 
a splice on my former car and eliminated the pipe altogether.  I was much 
happier with it.  It also makes the Water Pump easier to remove because you 
just have to undo the 3 bolts and the clamp at the pump and where the new 
hose splices with the one by the Clutch Slave Cylinder (if a manual 

I'd also recommend replacing the Idle Speed Thermister and the Ported Vacuum 
Switch (the one with the 3 hoses on it.)  If you want (but may not need to) 
you can also replace the LAMBDA Thermal Switch.  I hear these rarely go bad 
but for your piece of mind you may want to replace it to know it's "been 

I hope all this helps!

Jeff in NC

>From: "sweetp01569" <paul.sweet@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Intake Manifold Bolts
>Date: Sat, 03 Sep 2005 02:21:48 -0000
>I am gettiong closer to accessing the Valley of Death, and am a little
>nervous about it.  One manifold bolt stands in my path.  If looking 

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