Re: [DML] Electrical upgrade kits

[Chris Almy <chris.almy@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

Josh,
You shouldn't have to replace all the wiring. Not only is it expensive and 
a difficult task, but it's probably unnecessary. As long as the overall 
wiring looms and connectors are in good shape, there is no need to replace it.

To fix most electrical problems with this car, all you need is a basic 
understanding of electrical circuits. Most of the electrical system was 
designed in the 70's, so it's not too difficult to figure out. Other 
"fancy" equipment you'll need is the Workshop manual for usually accurate 
schematics and a $15-$30 digital multimeter from Radio Shack.

For your situation, I would set the meter to read DC volts. Start by 
reading the voltage of the battery. If it's below 12 volts, recharge it. 
I've had several circuits in the past not work simply due to an 
undercharged battery. From there, measure the voltage as you follow the 
positive power cable. It could be a cable was left disconnected at the 
starter or main bulkhead. Another possible spot is where the negative 
battery cable connects to the frame. If you're voltage readings change when 
moving the negative meter lead from the battery to the frame, then the 
connection to the frame is bad.

With everything dead, there isn't too many places that can cause this. With 
a bit of detective work and time, you should be able to fix this.

Chris
VIN 4099

At 09:14 PM 9/2/2005 +0000, you wrote:
>well, I'm not quite sure. Another owner emailed and said something
>about the fuse box. I looked at it and it didn't look melted. The
>battery is new but nothing works on the car anymore, when I bought it
>the lights worked and pump worked. I emailed DMCH to see how much it
>would cost me for them to rewire the whole car but have not heard
>from them yet. I'm running out of ideas.
>
>Josh
>10989






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