Re: [DML] Cold Start System
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Re: [DML] Cold Start System


when you're cranking the starter sucks so much current from the 
battery that the voltage goes down. Reason is the internal resistance 
of the battery and of the connections. I'm not going into details - just 
let me say - 9...10V are ok.

There is a relay that bridges one of the two resistors while cranking.
Does it work ? It's the one close the resistor at the fire wall.


> List:
> In my attempt to figure out my occasional odd starting problem, I think I
> may have found something and would like your opinion.  I think my problem
> has been lying in the fact that my cold start valve never actually fires. 
> have verified that the valve itself is operational by replacing it's power
> source with that of the CPR, and gas squirts just fine.  So you are
> probably thinking that my thermal time switch is bad, I ruled that out by
> verifying that there is continuity between the two terminals on the TTS
when there
> should be.  I even bypassed the TTS altogether and manually grounded the
> cold start valve and still nothing.  Then I put the voltage meter on the
> cold start valve connector and found that there were only 9-10 volts while
> cranking.  Is this enough juice to fire the cold start valve?  I figured
> would need a full 12, so this lead me to think that maybe my starter
> is failing and not giving enough voltage to the cold start valve.  Do you
> think my conclusion is correct?  However, it would seem odd that my
> solenoid would be failing yet the starter motor itself would function just
> fine, but I guess it's possible.  Also, I have taken off all of the
> solenoid wire connections and cleaned them thoroughly and the battery is
new with
> a full charge.  Kevin, you mentioned a while back that you had the same
> issue, you may want to check the voltage to the cold start valve too.
> Also, thanks to John Hervey for spending the time on the phone yesterday
> about this problem.
> Thanks,
> Todd Nelson
> 1561, Vermont

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