RE: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
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RE: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)

I had a problem just like this on one of the cars I serviced.  It popped and 
ran really rough unless I aligned the distributor all the way over to one 
side of the alignment area.  The distributor was off by one tooth where it 
meets the camshaft.  I pulled the distributor and aligned the motor by hand 
(valve cover on the right side off to check valve movement and be sure the 
motor is on the right stroke) once I reinstalled the distributor the 
position of the rotor was a bit away from the center and I checked the 
timing after the car was running.  I had to move the distributor a few 
millimeters or so over once the car was running but we hit a perfect 13 
degrees and the car started and ran perfectly from then on out.

Be sure to use the 13 degree mark and not the 0 on the timing plate.  You 
can pick up a cheap timing light from any autoparts store.  Also when 
aligning the cranksahft pulley be sure your using the mark on the right of 
the pulley not the one to the left of it...that mark is for the number 6 

Jeff in NC

P.S. Also you may have to readjust your CO once the distributor is aligned 
properly.  CO balance is very inportant.  You can smell the exhaust and tell 
right away if it is too rich if it burns your eyes to be near it.  Also 
gauge the heat with your hand.  I don't personally know your mechanical 
ability but that's a trick I use.  An easier way to get proper CO if you 
don't have the device to measure it in the exhaust is to listen for the 
Frequency Valve.  It will cease to make a continuous buzzing noise if too 
rich.  play with the CO screw making 1/8 turns and listen to both the engine 
and the Frequency Valve when you hit the sweet spot it will be just below 
the sound of the valve cutting off as you rotate counterclockwise from 
richer to lean.  The instant the valve comes on and remains constant once 
the car is warmed off, stop and cover the access hole.  The car will run 
perfectly from that point out.

Unless you have a problem with the O2 Sensor and in that case replace or 
unplug.  Unplugging forces the car to a default rich mixture and the 
Frequency Valve buzzes to life.  We used that solution on a couple cars here 
in NC until they ordered a new O2 Sensor and they ran like a dream.

>From: "stainlessilusion" <5n-@xxxxxxx>
>Reply-To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
>Subject: [DML] Can someone explain this? (distributor positioning)
>Date: Sun, 31 Jul 2005 01:09:40 -0000
>I'm still battling to get my engine running good, but encountered some
>problems. The distributor is adjusted a little bit counter clockwise
>from the center line-the engine starts right up fast, but idle
>condition is horrible with "popping" and rough running not to mention
>vibrations. Adjusting the distributor so it is on the centerline will
>give me the same results as described above, just a bit less popping.
>When it is adjusted a slight bit clockwise over the centerline, the
>engine runs so smooth and perfectly! BUT after the engine is off for 5
>minutes it is hard to start, and letting it sit over night it won't
>start at all the next morning. The only way to start it is with a
>great deal of starting spray, or by unbolting the distributor and
>adjusting it CCW. So instead of having a nice running engine, I run it
>CCW to eliminate start-up problems but also have to deal with bad rock
>and roll. Does anyone have any ideas on why this is happening? Is
>there something else I need to replace in order to get it to start
>right up? Thanks guys! -----Dani B. #5003 (almost there)

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