Re: [DML] plans for torsion bar adjustment jig

["Matt Spittle" <supermatty@xxxxxxx>]

Re-installing the louvers is much like re-installing the glove box
lid, and I've found both are very manageable if you go about it
methodically and set them in the "latched" position while the
adjusting screws/bolts are SEMI-loose, i.e., tight enough to hold
their position but loose enough to move if you push on them.  You can
work from there.  I can think of a lot harder jobs than re-aligning
louvers, such as:

-removing/reinstalling the dashboard
-removing/reinstalling the cylinder heads
-removing/reinstalling engine cover hinges
-swapping out a broken lower crankcase (LOL)

No one is saying you NEED to remove the louvers to adjust the torsion
bars, but it can be done with less tools if you do, and if your engine
cover is removed from the car.  

Matt
#1604 - with a '91 dodge monaco swap on the way

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Joe OBrien" <joeyoseppijoe@xxxx> wrote:
> 
> 
> Don't mind removing the louvers??????
> 
> I'd rather pull my own teeth than re-align the louvers again. The 
> louvers DO NOT need to be removed to adjust torsion bars. Just use 
> grady's schematic to build the jig, get the proper sickets and proper 
> extensions. Tape them to make sure they don't come apart. 
> 
> Still a two man job, one moving the breaker bar, and one aligning the 
> splines.
> 
> Don't remove the louvers, you'll be cussing and swearing at them for 
> hours.
> 
> Matt, do you just like doing things the hardest way possible?
> 
> 
> Joe O'Brien
> 
> 2524
> 16634
> 16851
> 
> 
> 
> 
> --- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "Matt Spittle" <supermatty@xxxx> wrote:
> > 
> > 
> > If you don't mind removing the louvers, this job can be done with 
> only
> > a breaker bar, allen socket and a 4' steel pipe for leverage.  Still
> > requires 2 people, though.  
> > 
> > Matt
> > #1604








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