Re: [DML] Replacing Door/Roof Seals

["Dave Swingle" <swingle@xxxxxxxxxxx>]

We've had Don Steger do this at our local tech sessions - rather than 
rivets, he uses very small short pan-head sheet metal screws with the 
tip ground off. Easier than rivets, and you can use them over again. 

If you are not sure that you have the right size call him - if they 
are the slightest bit too long you'll find out the hard way. 

At this point I'm personally very comfortable removing torsion bars 
and will do that as part of this process as well. Takes a lot of the 
worry out of it, and if you have the tools and helper on hand ads 
many 10 minutes to the process. 

Dave S

--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, mike.griese@xxxx wrote:
> 
> Michael 
> 
> I've done this operation on my car several years ago.  It's not
> as bad as it may look.  You can get a drill bit on the rivits, 
however it 
> is a Very Good Idea to cover the torsion bars with some duct tape
> or card board or something to prevent them from  becoming damaged.
> You also want to take care not to push real hard on the rivit once 
you 
> are close to drilling it out completely.  If you push too hard, you 
can
> dimple the top surface of the door.
> 
-----
> --
> Mike
> 
> 
> -------------- Original message from "Michael Babb" <mcbabb@xxxx>: -
------------- 
> 
> 
> > 
> > 
> > 
> > Hey gang, 
> > 
> > I am looking at replacing the weather seals that mount to the 
uppermost 
> > part of the door and form the seal between the door and the T-
panel. 
> > These are held in with pop rivets. 
> > 
>
> > Once you get the rivets out and are ready to mount the new parts, 
do 
> > people usually just screw these in, or are pop-rivets the way to 
go . . 
> > .don't want to have to go through too much pain if I have to do 
this 









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