Re: High Voltage Coils, High Octane Fuel

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

First high octane fuel: is not "better", is "less volatile". Can
compress further without igniting before spark. Made for high
compression engines. For example my 11:1 460 was designed for 97
octane (standard high grade in the 1960's). Timed at factory spec will
predetonate on anything less. I'm able to run 93 octane (to save money
on separate bottles of octane boost) but only by advancing ignition
time 2-3 degrees so spark will hit fuel before spontaneous combustion.
My 9.5:1 PRV also needs 93 octane (predetonates on 89 if I time 10
degrees -- Renault spec).

Note "premium fuel" is actually counter productive in low compression
engines -- leads to carbon buildup.

Now high voltage coils: I find engines have greatest difficulty
combusting when cold, full of condensation, etc. Can get very
incomplete fuel burn. All the vacuum crap I rip off my carbureted
blocks is designed to overcome this with a dizzying array of Rube
Goldberg delay valves, ported vacuum switches, extra carb passages,
etc. Am sure it worked great when cars left factory 25 years ago.
Isn't worth 2 cents now. Plus my replacement carb of choice
(Edelbrock, which is actually made by Weber using old Carter YFB
design -- go figure) doesn't even have the extra passages. I take
direct route: simplify vacuum to spark advance only then zap mixture
with higher voltage. Works like a charm.

Pertinent to DeLo: PRV is very basic engine. Warm up regulator (which
really performs function of carb choke plate only), Lamda which has no
effect on ignition whatsoever, and spark advance that doesn't kick in
until throttle plates open. That's it. Definitely can benefit from
higher voltage, especially when conditions not conducive to good fuel
burn.

Should be obvious by now that you and I will never agree on this
issue. Humbly suggest you not get so worked up about it. Even if
higher voltage coils had no benefit at all:
1) are my cars to configure as I wish
2) ignition coil usually costs less than any other item on engine 
3) are 1001 other things you should be asking me about but never do:
condition of filters, time since last fluid changes, etc

Bill Robertson
#5939

>Bill,
>
>do you understand what a resistor does ? It limits the current
through >the
>coil !
>Why is this needed ? Because the ignition module may not handle much
>more
>current.
>Maybe it will, but who knows without any specs and datasheets ?
>The resistor also protects the coil. Same issue - too much current for >a
>longer time will fry
>the wonder-coil, too. The interesting thing for a coil is NOT the
>voltage
>but the current through it !
>Original resistor plus a coil with lower resistor < original
>resistor+original coil. (Don't recall all
>the values to give you a correct number)
>Therefore there will be stored more energy in the same time. This may >be
>interesting for higher rpm.
>But my original configuration also makes 6500rpm...
> 
> You could also use the original coil and bridge one half of the
resistor -
> more current - more 
> energy in the coil !
> 
> In the good old days of breaker and points the coils had a larger
internal
> resistor and therefore they reduced the current themselves. But at
higher
> rpm's there may have been not enough energy to make a good ignition.
The dwell
> had to be set to satisfy low and high speeds as good as possible.
> 
> Why don't you explain us what kind of difference you feel with the
> superduper coil ?
> Maybe there still is a difference at higher rpm's, but so far you
just said
> "it is better".
> 
> Like using premium gas instead of regular. It is better - that's
what people
> tell me. So
> why do the car manufacturers not recommend it ? Because they can measure
> exactly what
> some people think they can feel ?
> 
> Give us some more details, values, and explanations based on facts
and maybe
> you will
> convince us. But so far it was only - hey, they write on the box it is
> better, therefore it
> muste be better....
> 
> Regards,
> Elvis & 6548

[long quote trimmed by moderator]