Re: Replacing the Fuel Accumulator

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

If your accumulator diaphragm is leaking there won't be any residual
pressure. That's why car won't start hot (no pressure to crack
injectors). When cold engine is running off cold start valve until
fuel system pressurized.

With engine off simply pressing down air sensor plate one time lowers
system pressure to 50 psi or so through the injectors. Remaining
pressure is slowly bled off as fasteners are removed. Yes, a little
gas will leak out, but it's not acid, nor will it spontaneously
combust (remember: gasoline vapors explode, not liquid). Of course
when working upside down under accumulator you don't want to drip into
eyes etc.

Accumulator is uphill of filter so contamination is lesser issue than
inside engine compartment. Try to be clean nevertheless.

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, deloreanss@xxxx wrote:
> I am about to go through the process of replacing my fuel
accumulator, which 
> has been the source or many hot non-starts. The thing I am worried
about is 
> that it seems too easy (deceptively so?). Is there any trick to
this? I have 
> searched the shop manual over to find out if it is pressurized or
not. I assume 
> it is. I am afraid I am going to get a face full of gasoline when I
yank this 
> thing. Any tips?
> 
> Thanks,
> John Weaver
> ETDOC 
> RED DMC #10527
> 
> 
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]