Re: Vacuum leaks and hi-temps
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Re: Vacuum leaks and hi-temps



Replace the injector seals if they are hard and leak. Get a coolant
system pressure tester and pump the system up to 15 psi. Check for
leaks and bleed out the air by the bleeder screw on the water pump and
the little hose on the top right side of the radiator. Watch the
coolant level as you bleed and if it gets too low, stop and add more
coolant before bleeding further. Make sure at idle the throttle is
hitting the idle micro and turning on the idle motor. The mixture
screw won't change the idle speed much. Jumper the otterstadt switch
with a paper clip. If the fans won't run check the circuit breaker,
fan fail relay (or bypass or fanzilla or whatever is in there) and
finally the fan motors themselves. Since you did all this work because
the engine overheated go over the cooling system very carefully. If
you can't get the fans running don't let the motor overheat! Remember,
the engine gets to about 200 degrees, that is pretty hot, hotter than
you can hold your hand on. When driving it can get to over 230 degrees
with the A/C on, on a hot summer day. The thermostat tries to keep it
at least over 180 degrees. Get the cooling system running right before
doing more troubleshooting on the fuel system. After getting it to run
right you should change the engine oil and filter.
David Teitelbaum
vin 10757


--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Whew...
> 
> I fixed the cam access plate on the head. That sealed the oil leak and
> that one vacuum leak.
> 







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