Re: running rich?? (Rich #5335's post)

["content22207" <brobertson@xxxx>]

Three screws you speak of are manual idle circuit, used by Volvo and
myself. Have summarized procedure to set them in place of DMC
automatic idle if you'd like a copy (brobertson(AT)carolina.net). Is
not permanent -- you can switch back and forth between automatic and
manual very easily -- and IMHO is a useful technique all DeLorean
owners should know (for example to diagnose idle speed motor or ECU).
In your case something would need to be done to replace broken hex
heads: if you don't want to buy new screws could drill and tap #8's or
#10's into what's left so you at least have something to grip.

Screw closest to air sensor plate let's air into manual circuit.
Middle screw balances passenger side of engine. Screw closest to U
pipes balances driver side.

Fuel mixture screw access hole is located between air sensor plate and
fuel distributor. Screw itself is inside upper air assembly, attached
to teeter totter between sensor plate and distributor piston. If your
fuel mixture used to be correct, don't worry about this screw. VERY
unlikely it turned itself -- problem is probably elsewhere, such as
warm up/control pressure regulator.

What exactly are your symptoms? Pull a couple of spark plugs -- rich
mixture burns dirty, leaving DRY black residue on plug (pulling spark
plugs very important diagnostic technique. Is only way to tell what's
going on inside combustion chambers). Of couse an improper spark also
burns dirty: make sure car is timed correctly and ignition components
are top condition. Check your spark advance cut off solenoid -- if
it's malfunctioning car will be WAY too advanced when tuned at idle. 

Bill Robertson
#5939

>--- In dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx, "cruznmd" <racuti1@xxxx> wrote:
> Gents,
> 
> I'm also running very rich so I've been following this conversation 
> intently. 
> 
> First question: The three brass set screws on the intake near 
> the "W" pipe. Two are for the cylinder banks and are supposed to be 
> fully shut. That much I know. Is the 3rd one the mixture screw? Are 
> all 3 supposed to be fully shut? If not, how can I best determine the 
> proper position of that 3rd mystery screw? I don't have sophisticated 
> test equipment.
> 
> Second question: The yahoo owner before me, cranked them down so 
> tightly, that when I checked them, the heads snapped off all 3 of 
> them with almost no effort. I presume that an easy-out or similar 
> extraction tool will remove them....right guys??
> 
> Thanks,
> 
> Rich
> #5335
>