Re: [DML] Re: rear wheel bearing

["Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxx>]

> I don't think you have to compress the springs. Just unbolt the lower
shock
> eyelet from the lower carrier pivot bolt once the car is jacked up and let
> the shock and spring hang there. The shock itself should be what's
limiting
> the lower travel of the entire rear suspension. Haven't had mine apart
that
> way myself yet...so correct me if I'm wrong.

Jim, I wouldn't say you are wrong, but I wouldn't say you are completely
right either. I have heard two scenarios on the DML. One guy was able to
put a jack under the shock eyelet to support it while he removed the bolt to
uncompressed/recompressed the spring. Unlike the front spring, there isn't
as much tension on the rear while the suspension is hanging, but still if
that shock slips to one side it wouldn't be a pretty sight. Another guy
didn't know better and removed the nut holding the top of the shock to the
frame. This let it pop loose. I suppose this would be okay as long as you
gave it plenty of room. Otherwise it would break a bone -- not quite my
style.

> You don't need to remove the springs at all. Replacing
> those bearings really is an easy job. Don't make it harder than it has to
> be.

Rob, if you didn't remove the rear hub carrier (and hence the spring, too)
then how did you fit that Harbor Freight press on there? [For those of you
not following this, we had an off list discussion.]

I talked with Warren @ DMC, and this is what he told me: Push out the
outboard drive shaft by giving it a few "love taps". Remove the circlip and
use an air hammer to drive the old bearing out being careful not to damage
the hub carrier. He said that an air hammer is almost a necessity.
Installing the new bearing is the reverse of the removal procedure only
don't use an air hammer because it will damage the bearing. Use a special
tool made just for driving in bearings or a large socket might do.

Walt