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------------------------------------------------------------------------
There are 25 messages in this issue.
Topics in this digest:
1. RE: Power Steering
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
2. Re: Power Steering
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
3. Front End Drop
From: "Don Golden" <Don.Golden@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
4. Sidelight wiring
From: "funkymcfly" <danielpwillis@xxxxxxxxxxx>
5. Re: Re: rear wheel bearing
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
6. PHX-MEM caravan
From: "tp8534" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
7. Re: Re graining our car
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
8. Lake Erie British Car Club - Show
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
9. Re: Front End Drop
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
10. Re: Front End Drop
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
11. Re: Re: rear wheel bearing
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
12. Re: Power Steering
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
13. Re: Back-up Lights
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
14. Re: R-12 warning
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
15. Re: Foam under T-panel !
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
16. 2002 Registration/Hotel
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
17. upper RR screen
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
18. Legend Turbo Charged Engines
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
19. Re: upper RR screen & Black insulation
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
20. Re: wheel discoloration
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
21. Re: upper RR screen
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
22. RE: Legend Turbo Charged Engines
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
23. RE: Idle speed problem
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
24. Re: Power Steering
From: "evm2k" <evm2k@xxxxxxxxx>
25. Re: Re: rear wheel bearing
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 1
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 11:26:50 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Power Steering
WHY?
If you feel you have the need for power steering, you may have some problem with your car.
Even when parallel parking, I have no problem with the manual steering on both of my DeLoreans.
Inspect your rack. Make sure it is properly lubricated. Also do a general front end inspection (tie rods, ball joints....blah blah)
> -----Original Message-----
> From: evm2k [mailto:evm2k@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 9:10 AM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Power Steering
>
>
> Has anyone ever put power steering in their Delorean? If so, what
> car did you get the parts from and how hard was it to install. I
> heard that Toyota makes power steering for their MR2 and uses an
> electric power steering pump in the trunk instead of using a belt
> driven pump in the engine.
>
> I know, I know it gets the car away from the original but HEY!!! SO
> I'M SPOILED!!!
>
<SNIP>
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 2
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:17:07 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Steering
I have heard that it has been done before, but I haven't seen any photos or
specs. There is plenty of room for improvement without adding power
steering. First, make sure your steering rack has the proper amount of oil
in it. Also make sure the steering rack boots are intact because torn ones
will allow the oil to leak out. Second, install lowered front springs.
With the OEM high spring setup, the steering rack has to reach down to turn
the wheels. The further the tie-rods reach down, the more steering force is
wasted. When you are turning the wheel, some of that force is actually
wasted by jouncing the front suspension!
The last thing the DeLorean needs is another large electrical load at low
RPMs. If you made an electric steering rack fit, you would need to come up
with a better way to get good alternator output at low RPM.
Walt
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Message: 3
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 10:06:03 -0600
From: "Don Golden" <Don.Golden@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Front End Drop
Hi All
Something new came up which is baffling. When shifting out of 1st gear the right front of the car seems to drop and I feel a slight tendency to swerve to the left. This seems to be more pronounced the higher the revs are when I shift out of 1st. I hear no clunks or other sounds.
Other than this the car seems to drive fine. I don't notice this in any other gear. It's almost as if this is caused by either 1) the front weight shift as the car decelerates, or 2) the engine torque as it decreases revs, or a combination of both. This isn't noticeable during braking, only during accelerating out of 1st gear.
A visual check suggests that the engine mounts are OK. I tried another test: with the parking brake on and the the car in 1st gear I let the clutch out slowly. The engine doesn't twist (there is a slight downward movement). The same thing happens in with the tranny in reverse (except the engine moves upward slightly).
I can't see any visual problems with the shocks/springs, ball joints, tie rod ends. I'm at a loss of where to go next. Could the trailing arm bolts or transmission mounts have a similar effect?
Thanks Don VIN 4835
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 4
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 16:55:39 -0000
From: "funkymcfly" <danielpwillis@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Sidelight wiring
Hi,
I'm currently preparing my car for it's first MOT (road legal
testing) over here in the UK. I have to put sidelights in the
headlights as a legal requirement (orange isn't allowed) and so I
need to know which wire feeds the sidelight element of the bulb in
the indicator? Black red and green... Black being obvious but which
of the other two feed the sidelight?
Cheers!
Dan
Vin#5284 - Hana - www.projectmadness.com
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 5
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:59:01 EDT
From: jrc2905@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: rear wheel bearing
If you have a slide hammer and a bearing punch You can do it on the car, also
you do not need to compress your springs to take the rear hub off, the shock
is bolted tothe frame and will stay there.
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 6
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:01:29 -0000
From: "tp8534" <mpolans@xxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: PHX-MEM caravan
Hi folks,
I haven't received any bites on the caravan but a few good
members dropped me a line about the I-40 bridge between OK and AR
being out. Looks like the best way to go from the southwest is the
southern route. Out of Phoenix and down throught Tucson on the 10,
across TX on the 20, through DFW on the 30 and onto the I-40 in the
middle of Arkansas, completely avoiding the downed bridge. It's only
a few miles more so that shouldn't be a problem. The good news is
I'll be heading through lower Texas and could (and would really like
to) join up with the folks coming from there. Once again, drop me a
line if you are interested in coming out with me to Memphis from the
southwest and are driving. Going eastbound I have an empty seat
that's up for grabs.
See you there,
Matthew
VIN #16816 (going south)
VIN #10365 (white, for sale, and vacationing with Rob Grady)
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 7
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 14:09:18 -0400
From: "Walter Coe" <Whalt@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re graining our car
> You say you do small areas
> at a time do you go back and forthabout four or more
> strokes, or is it one swipe of it in each area?
I hate those typos that change the meaning. I meant to say "Touch & Go".
For the hand sanding technique, use 80 grit on a rubber block meant for
sanding cars. Carefully place the pad on the car without rubbing. Then
press hard and lift off in one short stroke. This process is painfully slow
for large areas. The deeper the scratch you are trying to remove, the more
passes it will take. I only sand in one direction like stroking a cat.
Same with the belt sander. For the bend just above the door molding, I
wrapped the paper around my thumb and did short strokes down the length of
the door. Long strokes are bad because they show up as long wavy lines.
The abrasive particles dig deeper and wider the farther you push it. It is
impossible to get each stroke perfectly straight, but an average of many
short strokes looks great.
I used the belt sander technique on my door after converting my '81 door
lock to an '82 and removing a dent below the trim caused by an OEM window
regulator. I re-grained most of my drivers door using a belt sander, and
the results were excellent. But I would hate to do an entire car this way.
Belt sanders are heavy, and mine was hard to get into even the slightest
curves. The rollers on my belt sander are not perfectly round, so sanding
with these parts put cupping gouges in my test metal. The sponge I used
under the platen was actually self-adhesive foam weather stripping that was
1" wide by 1/2" thick. The thicker the better because this will give you
more clearance to keep the rollers away from the car. I used several
pieces side-by-side. My sander is variable speed, and I prefer an
intermediate setting. Again, practice on some scrap first. Mistakes could
make the stainless very thin very fast. My practice sheet of metal was
stainless steel. If you use regular steel to practice on, then I suggest
switching to a new belt before touching the car. Contaminants might
transfer and rust the stainless. My hood has damage from steel wool done by
a pervious owner. It isn't really obvious except at DeLorean shows where
people know what to look for. It has tiny rust speck stains that got worse
and now seem to be wearing off. I suppose the best way to fix it is to
regrain, but I have too many more vital things to fix on the car.
If you sand close to any of the glass, cut out a piece of cardboard to fit
the window to protect it incase you slip. Also, the abrasive dust that
comes off the sandpaper can scratch the glass. Be careful when you wipe it
off. It is best to use compressed air so you don't rub it in. Also be very
careful of anything that settles on the windshield wipers. If you forget to
remove the dust, then the wipers can scratch the windshield. Don't let any
dust fall between the roll- down window and the exterior glass/wiper gasket.
Underneath stuck inside the door are pieces of velcro fuzz to pad the glass.
If any abrasive sticks in that, it may scratch the side window, too.
Walt
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Message: 8
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 12:13:59 -0700 (PDT)
From: Shannon Yocom <ssdelorean@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Lake Erie British Car Club - Show
FYI to all,
Lake Erie British Car Club
June 2nd is the date of their 2002 Car Show at Fort Meigs in Perrysburg, Ohio.
(Toledo)
Registration is from 10am - 3pm.
http://lakeeriebritishnews.home.att.net
-----------------
Upon talking with one of the British Car Club reps I guess he was unaware that
the DeLorean was manufactured in Ireland. Though there is no registration "class"
for the DeLorean at this show, he would gladly welcome DeLoreans to the show.
Shannon Y
VIN# Not Yet!
__________________________________________________
Do You Yahoo!?
Yahoo! - Official partner of 2002 FIFA World Cup
http://fifaworldcup.yahoo.com
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Message: 9
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 21:45:12 -0000
From: "dmc6960" <ultra@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front End Drop
CHECK YOUR TRAILING ARM BOLTS!!!!! Same thing happened to me last
year. What had happened is I lost all the alignment shims on one
side, causing the wheel to have a lot of freeplay in the toe. This is
noticable under acceleration because of the torque put upon the wheel
by the driveshaft. If you check both your bolts, I'm almost certain
you will fine one which is very loose and missing shims. It is very
dangerous to drive like this as it will put extra strain on the
trailing arm bolts which may already be damaged. May I suggest
getting new washers, shims, bushings, and Toby-TABs to remidy the
situation. Otherwise, if the bolt doesn't show any signs of being
bent or damaged in any way, you may be able to get by with just new
shims and re-torquing the bolt. Good luck.
Jim Reeve
MNDMC - Minnesota DeLorean Club
DMC-6960
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Don Golden" <Don.Golden@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Something new came up which is baffling. When shifting out of 1st
gear the right front of the car seems to drop and I feel a slight
tendency to swerve to the left. This seems to be more pronounced the
higher the revs are when I shift out of 1st. I hear no clunks or other
sounds.
>
> Other than this the car seems to drive fine. I don't notice this in
any other gear. It's almost as if this is caused by either 1) the
front weight shift as the car decelerates, or 2) the engine torque as
it decreases revs, or a combination of both. This isn't noticeable
during braking, only during accelerating out of 1st gear.
>
> A visual check suggests that the engine mounts are OK. I tried
another test: with the parking brake on and the the car in 1st gear I
let the clutch out slowly. The engine doesn't twist (there is a slight
downward movement). The same thing happens in with the tranny in
reverse (except the engine moves upward slightly).
>
> I can't see any visual problems with the shocks/springs, ball
joints, tie rod ends. I'm at a loss of where to go next. Could the
trailing arm bolts or transmission mounts have a similar effect?
>
> Thanks Don VIN 4835
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 10
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 00:17:06 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Front End Drop
Don - The first place that I would check is the rubber bushings in the
connection between the front sway bar and the front lower control
arms. During the deceleration phase, you will naturally get a slight
nose dive as the effective center of gravity of the car shifts
forward. It sounds like you may be getting some slight caster (or
perhaps camber, but unlikely) change during that loading phase. I can
visualize the lower control arm on the left side dropping back just a
bit during the "dive". The only way to properly inspect these
bushings is to remove the sway bar. Not a big deal, but more than
just "taking a peek". BTW - when I shift gears, and the nose dives a
bit, I notice a slight temporary increase in the speedometer reading
as the front tires compress a little from the higher loads. This
reduces the effective diameter of the tires for a brief moment. This
gives you an indication of how substantial these load shifts can be.
This doesn't sound like a TAB or motor/transmission mount issue, or
you would have seen it during your "handbrake test" (for the mounts).
That test was a good and sensible idea, by the way.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Don Golden" <Don.Golden@xxxx> wrote:
> Hi All
>
> Something new came up which is baffling. When shifting out of 1st
gear the right front of the car seems to drop and I feel a slight
tendency to swerve to the left. This seems to be more pronounced the
higher the revs are when I shift out of 1st. I hear no clunks or other
sounds.
>
> Other than this the car seems to drive fine. I don't notice this in
any other gear. It's almost as if this is caused by either 1) the
front weight shift as the car decelerates, or 2) the engine torque as
it decreases revs, or a combination of both. This isn't noticeable
during braking, only during accelerating out of 1st gear.
>
> A visual check suggests that the engine mounts are OK. I tried
another test: with the parking brake on and the the car in 1st gear I
let the clutch out slowly. The engine doesn't twist (there is a slight
downward movement). The same thing happens in with the tranny in
reverse (except the engine moves upward slightly).
>
> I can't see any visual problems with the shocks/springs, ball
joints, tie rod ends. I'm at a loss of where to go next. Could the
trailing arm bolts or transmission mounts have a similar effect?
>
> Thanks Don VIN 4835
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 11
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 20:39:50 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Re: rear wheel bearing
In a message dated 5/28/02 11:17:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time, Whalt@xxxxxxx
writes:
<< I'm not excited about compressing the
rear springs again. I've done this twice per side already.
>>
I don't think you have to compress the springs. Just unbolt the lower shock
eyelet from the lover carrier pivot bolt once the car is jacked up and let
the shock and spring hang there. The shock itself should be what's limiting
the lower travel of the entire rear suspension. Haven't had mine apart that
way myself yet...so correct me if I'm wrong.
Jim 6147
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Message: 12
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 18:15:20 -0400
From: Peter Lucas <lucas@xxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Steering
If I could make just one change to the original design of the D., I
would add power steering. No, there is nothing wrong with my car, and
no, I don't miss it during normal driving. But, no matter how well
maintained the car, doing three-point turnarounds with manual steering
is a lot of work. I need to do this every morning as I back out of my
garage and again in the parking lot when I head for home. With a daily
driver it gets old.
If anybody has a pointer to a practical electric PS retrofit, I would be
very excited.
Cheers,
--Pete Lucas
VIN #06703
On Tuesday, May 28, 2002, at 11:26 AM, Marc A. Levy wrote:
> WHY?
>
> If you feel you have the need for power steering, you may have some
> problem with your car.
>
> Even when parallel parking, I have no problem with the manual steering
> on both of my DeLoreans.
>
> Inspect your rack. Make sure it is properly lubricated. Also do a
> general front end inspection (tie rods, ball joints....blah blah)
>
________________________________________________________________________
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Message: 13
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 20:44:10 EDT
From: jwit6@xxxxxx
Subject: Re: Back-up Lights
In a message dated 5/28/02 11:22:31 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
thesmokingman@xxxxxxxxxxx writes:
<< They functioned on and off before, but now no matter how I jiggle the
shifter I cant get them
to come on. Any suggestions appreciated.
>>
Get under the car and connect the two spade connectors on the backup light
switch on the tranny housing together. You should have lights. Check the
switch with an ohm meter with the car in reverse. Shoul have continuity when
in reverse. If the switch is good it's in the wiring. Start with the wiring
diagram.
Jim 6147
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 14
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 01:11:01 -0000
From: "gr8old1" <Gr8old1@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: R-12 warning
As an addendum to this, try to find a shop that will do a free
recheck of the system integrity a few weeks later. Make sure that you
run your a/c as much as possible in the interim. this will help them
determine whether or not any leaks are present in the system.
I recently had my A/C system (87 Monte Carlo) serviced and recharged
with 3.5 pds of r12 freon and will be bringing it back this week for
the recheck. I certainly don't want to be caught down south without
A/C! OH NO!
See you all at the show.
Jeff Chabotte
http://www.88-mph.com
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Message: 15
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 00:23:11 -0000
From: "tmpintnl" <tobyp@xxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Foam under T-panel !
Stian - Check out post #24197, by Jim Sawyer. His method works great.
Toby Peterson VIN 2248
Winged1 - And friends with Jim Sawyer
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Stian Birkeland" <delorean@xxxx> wrote:
> Ok, so what is the recommended foam to use when aligning the T-panel
with the doors?
> The old foam strips are now "dust", so I'd like to know what people
use as replacement foam.
> Please be as specific as you can, since I want a reliable foam that
will last another 20 years...
>
> Best wishes
> Stian Birkeland
> Norway
>
> VIN # 06759
>
>
> [Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 16
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:21:14 -0500
From: "SteveDMC" <stevedmc@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: 2002 Registration/Hotel
Are there any people out there still interested in splitting a room for the event?
I will be staying Friday and Saturday night.
Also need to figure out what to do about my last minute registration.
Scott, if ya know of anyone looking to split a room please contact me. I would apreciate it.
Thanks,
Steve Rice
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 17
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 19:01:39 -0500
From: "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: upper RR screen
Has anyone reproduced the upper RR screen that holds the T-panel down?
Mine isn't broken, it's just twisted and warped awful in the heat. I called
DMCHou but they haven't any available and new source isn't available
(still).
for the time being I've cut two metal brackets with one still to go. One
small each for the outside screw and T-panel tab, and one larger 18" bracket
for the middle screw and two tabs.
I can take a pic if anyone's interested. I just bought a stout bracket at
Home Depot and cut and shaped it on the vise.
-Kevin
#4687
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 18
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 23:03:42 -0000
From: "spaceace3113" <spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Legend Turbo Charged Engines
I consider myself pretty well versed as far as Deloreans go...i have
researched this car for 4 years or so...and know about 502...and
remember seeing a Legend engine at Delorean 0ne's first page of their
catalog once....its been rcently brought to my attention that there
were more engines made and that they are out there in the private
sector, can anyone comment on this? is this true? and what would they
be worth? in or out of car....thanx
Harry
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________________________________________________________________________
Message: 19
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 22:26:39 EDT
From: billsfanmd@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: upper RR screen & Black insulation
I have the same problem with my T-Panel. I am curious what your bracket looks
like.....if you can put your email address on a message so I can respond to
you directly that would be great. I am at Billsfanmd(at)aol.com. Right now
just my left tab does not have anything to clamp onto but I am sure the
others are not far behind...
Also since we are in that part of the car....I have a question about the rear
side air vents...At the back of each side window there is a black vent that
goes down into the car on each side....It is wrapped/insulated with some sort
of black tape??? what is this stuff?...Mine is starting to peel apart and I
would like to find something else to rewrap it and make it look
nicer...silicone? black cloth tape???
thanks,
Mike C
2109
[Non-text portions of this message have been removed]
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Message: 20
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 22:40:36 EDT
From: Soma576@xxxxxxx
Subject: Re: wheel discoloration
<<Mag and wire wheel cleaners can contain phosphoric or other stronger
acids. This can damage the clear coat powder coated materials. The
gloss finish is etched.
Bob>>
List -
i would not recommend anyone try using this product ("Eagle-1 Chrome and Wire
Wheel Cleaner"). the bottle clearly says not to use it on polished aluminum
or motorcycle wire wheels, and does not say a THING about powdercoated chrome
wheels or magnesium. you would think that if it damaged powdercoated chrome
wheels, it would say that, right? i guess not. i am in the process of
filing a damage claim against Eagle-1 and hoping they will pay for
refinishing. i am very upset.
Andy
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Message: 21
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:40:02 -0000
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: upper RR screen
Kevin
I had the same problem with my screen being broken and Houston not
having one.
Although I did not make any to offer, I have an idea that may work
for you. I found a local race car builder who fabricates a lot of
his race car body panels out of aluminum. I took him my warped,
broken piece and he was easily able to fabricate a replacement. Now
it did not look 100% original but it worked out great. You could
probably go to anyone who does metal work and get this done. Cost me
$50.00
Just a suggestion.
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "K Creason" <dmc4687@xxxx> wrote:
> Has anyone reproduced the upper RR screen that holds the T-panel
down?
>
> Mine isn't broken, it's just twisted and warped awful in the heat.
I called
> DMCHou but they haven't any available and new source isn't available
> (still).
>
> for the time being I've cut two metal brackets with one still to
go. One
> small each for the outside screw and T-panel tab, and one larger
18" bracket
> for the middle screw and two tabs.
>
> I can take a pic if anyone's interested. I just bought a stout
bracket at
> Home Depot and cut and shaped it on the vise.
>
> -Kevin
> #4687
________________________________________________________________________
________________________________________________________________________
Message: 22
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 08:38:18 -0400
From: "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Legend Turbo Charged Engines
I also spend many years researching, and spoke to one of the engineers that worked for Legend.
There is no documentation I have found that confirms any specific number of TWIN TURBO (there were a few single turbos made too) engines that were built, however you are very correct that there were a number of them produced (I estimate between 8 and 10).
Two TWIN turbo engines were installed in to Alpine 310's before the DeLorean car was available to them. I have been told these cars are still around.
Two more TWIN turbo engines made it in to car #501 and #502.
A few more engines were built for dyno and endurance testing, I believe most of these ended up in the hands of people closely related to the Legend project in 1982. A few have since made it in to the hands of collectors, including one that I have which was purchased from Legend Industries by the previous owner of my car when Legend closed up.
Two of the TWIN turbo engines I know of are no longer complete and will probably never run again.
The engine owned by Delorean One has been argued to be the engine that was sent on the publicity tour by DMC to promote the future of the car company. SSI documents that this engine was incomplete internally. If this is correct, DeLorean One may have "completed" the engine but if they did it was likely not to be with the Legend parts. NONE OF THIS HAS BEEN CONFIRMED, but second hand stories from people who had seen this engine installed in a car were not favorable. I'd love to get some confirmed information on this engine.
As far as value goes, something is only worth what someone is willing to pay for it. Car 502 is by far the best well known, so if I were ever to consider selling my Legend engine, I would use recent values or sales of 502 as a guideline..
Why do you ask? Do you want to buy or sell one? If your shopping for a Legend Engine, I warn you to know what your looking for (Or enlist the help of someone who does). I lost count of the number of times I have been told by someone that they had a FACTORY twin turbo DeLorean, and it turned out to be one of the well know aftermarket kits.. Good thing I did not start to ignore those claims, or I would have missed buying the one I have! :)
There are scattered bits of information that you can collect in the DML archives on this subject too.. It will require a good amount of search time on your part, but may be rewarding depending on what your looking for.
> -----Original Message-----
> From: spaceace3113 [mailto:spaceace3113@xxxxxxxxx]
> Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 7:04 PM
> To: dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx
> Subject: [DML] Legend Turbo Charged Engines
>
> I consider myself pretty well versed as far as Deloreans go...i have
> researched this car for 4 years or so...and know about 502...and
> remember seeing a Legend engine at Delorean 0ne's first page of their
> catalog once....its been rcently brought to my attention that there
> were more engines made and that they are out there in the private
> sector, can anyone comment on this? is this true? and what would they
> be worth? in or out of car....thanx
>
> Harry
>
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Message: 23
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 12:30:39 -0000
From: "tmasterlc" <tmasterlc@xxxxxxx>
Subject: RE: Idle speed problem
If you have checked all the other suggestions made on idle speed and
still have a problem, check this.
Where the throttle cable comes into the throttle spool there is an
adjustable fitting. The black sheath of the cable should be secure
in that fitting (shouldnt pull out). If it does get pulled out, for
whatever reason, and hangs up on the fitting instead of going back in
the fitting you will get an idle speed of 1500-3000 rpm.
Ron
#1529
#6322
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Message: 24
Date: Wed, 29 May 2002 10:57:39 -0000
From: "evm2k" <evm2k@xxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Power Steering
I did check out my rack & front end and found it in decent shape. I
even went into a few other Deloreans and checked them out. They all
seemed to be the same. Very hard. When I'm driving, there's no
problem but it's when I'm manuevering around town and parking is when
I wish that it did have power steering. Especially in San
Francisco!!!
Is this rack and pinion an exclusive Delorean design or is there
another car that shares the same components? If anyone knows, please
let me know so that I can do some further research.
Richard
Danville, Ca
--- In dmcnews@xxxx, "Marc A. Levy" <malevy@xxxx> wrote:
> WHY?
>
> If you feel you have the need for power steering, you may have some
problem with your car.
>
> Even when parallel parking, I have no problem with the manual
steering on both of my DeLoreans.
>
> Inspect your rack. Make sure it is properly lubricated. Also do a
general front end inspection (tie rods, ball joints....blah blah)
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Message: 25
Date: Tue, 28 May 2002 22:44:50 -0400
From: "Rob Hook" <rob_hook@xxxxxxxxxx>
Subject: Re: Re: rear wheel bearing
This is correct. You don't need to remove the springs at all. Replacing
those bearings really is an easy job. Don't make it harder than it has to
be.
--Rob
----- Original Message -----
From: <jwit6@xxxxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Tuesday, May 28, 2002 8:39 PM
Subject: Re: [DML] Re: rear wheel bearing
> In a message dated 5/28/02 11:17:08 AM Eastern Daylight Time,
Whalt@xxxxxxx
> writes:
>
> << I'm not excited about compressing the
> rear springs again. I've done this twice per side already.
> >>
> I don't think you have to compress the springs. Just unbolt the lower
shock
> eyelet from the lover carrier pivot bolt once the car is jacked up and let
> the shock and spring hang there. The shock itself should be what's
limiting
> the lower travel of the entire rear suspension. Haven't had mine apart
that
> way myself yet...so correct me if I'm wrong.
> Jim 6147
>
>
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