Re: [DML] Re: Problem closing door (warped???)

["Donald Ekhoff" <ekhoff@xxxx>]

Not that this will help, but I have the same problem exactly. Problem is
that I know why. I had the car worked on and the door was left open while
the car was elevated in a lift. The door was compressed at the forward edge
(the corner was curled) and when I went to pick it up the entire door was
about two inches out of true with the body work. I tied it closed enough to
get it home (I couldn't get out of there fast enough), and tried to unbend
it myself. It is now closeable but as you describe. Try as I might I can
not get it back to original. I would say it is out about 3/8 inch relative
to the surrounding panels. I will be following this thread in hopes of
getting it back to proper operation.

If I get braver I might try to clamp a 8 ft. long 2x4 to the lower edge to
act as an extended lever and brute force the twist back out of it. My fear
is that I might break some glass as it got pretty scary just getting it to
where it is now.

Donald L. Ekhoff


----- Original Message -----
From: <mark@xxxx>
To: <dmcnews@xxxxxxxxxxxxxxx>
Sent: Thursday, October 04, 2001 6:48 PM
Subject: [DML] Re: Problem closing door (warped???)


> HELP!
>
> I have almost the exact problem on my passenger door. The SS isn't
> hitting the GRP, but the doorguide and latch DO rub against the end
> of the rear striker-pin.
>
> Here are the problems: (knowing that each latch actually latches
> twice)
>
> 1) The rear doorguide and latch rub against the end of the rear
> striker-pin
> 2) slowly closing from the center of the door, the front latch (first
> latch)catches first.
> 3) Then the (first latch) of the rear door catches after another 1/4-
> 1/2" of pushing.
> 4) Then the (final latch) of the front latch latches.
> 5) I have to push the rear of the door in (HARD) in order to have the
> rear (final latch) latch.